You've much overstated the toxicity of Imron. The real problem with it
is that like most urethanes it's a respiratory sensitizer. You can
spray it just fine for 20 years and then one day you walk into a room
where it was sprayed a week ago and keel over in anaphylactic shock.
The reason for the air supplied respirator by the way is that the toxic
component of Imron has no odor--you can't tell if your respirator is
leaking or if the cartridge is shot so the only way to be sure is to use
one that supplies positive air pressure.
Still, it's really overkill for a wrought iron railing unless you are
already set up to apply it and have some material left over from another
Almost right. The biggest problem is IsoCyanates can not be
"filtered" out of the air by any conventuional respirator filters.
Fresh air under pressure is the ONLY safe way to work with
The iso-cyanates are both toxic to the liver AND respiratory
On Mar 5, 2:52 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Correct. BUT... you can get canisters filter which will filter out
polyicocyanates. They are similar to those used in nuclear plants.
Aside from the particulate filtration, the charcoal component will,
for a short time, filter out those gases.
The positive-air full headgear masks simply allow you to work for
longer periods of time.
The problem with the carbon respirators is they have a VERY limitted
effectiveness, and there is NO WAY to know when they have lost their
effectiveness. I believe they are NOT approved by the applicable
workplace safety administrations in canada any more.
Common misconception. Activated charcoal filters work fine. The
problem is that since isocyanates have no odor you can't tell when the
filter is saturated.
It is the only legal way for a business to do it in the US.
Please provide a source that supports your contention that isocyanates
You might find <http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2004-116/pdfs/2004 -
116.pdf> to be of interest. Note that there is no mention of any effect
on the liver. And that it states that air-purifying respirators are
"not recommended since isocyanates have poor vapor-warning properties".
Nothing about their not working. Here's another, a typical EU data
sheet--note the approved respirator, and the extensive mention of health
hazards with no mention of liver damage
And a third--similar information <http://www.swiss-composite.ch/pdf/s -
And here's a publication from the UK Health and Safety Executive
<http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg388.pdf>. Again no mention of liver
damage, and "The mist is tasteless and odourless and filtering face
masks can fail to protect without warning."
Do you have a source that contradicts these?
No, I was just responding to the post that said it was dangerous to
the liver - I didn't check on that and tell him he was wrong - I just
added the respiratory sensitization. My bad.
The repiratory issues are serious enough without liver involvement -
and the sensitization goes beyond respiratory.
Those odourless components are in suspension with components that do
have a very strong, distinct odour... deliberately made 'stinky'.
To say that Imron is odourless proves that yet once again, you don't
know what you're talking about.
"tiredofspam" wrote in message
Hold on there. Before you do IMRON know the risks.
IMRON must be sprayed with a full respirator. Not what you use in your
shop. Its a respirator with a pump, and carbon filter, a hose long
enough to keep the pump outside the contamination area. My setup cost me
over 800 about 20 years ago.
IMRON on the other hand is one of the most durable paints. BUT WITHOUT A
RESPIRATOR you will DIE. Your liver will be shot in a single
application. The stuff never leaves it, and it builds up after each use.
It doesn't take much to completely kill you.
There is no reason to spend that kind of money, if you are handy.
I had a very small blower, or a hair dryer without the heat turned on will
Go to your big box store and get 80 feet or so of 1 1/4 inch plastic bilge
hose, or something like that.
Take a respirator mask, and duct tape off one of the places the filters
attach, and tape a 1" PVC elbow on the other place the cartridge is supposed
to go. Attach the hose between the blower and the elbow, and put the blower
out in fresh air, and you are good to go. Cover your skin with a tyvec suit
and hood, and hopefully the respirator was a full face unit, then go at it.
Total cost if you already had the respirator is around 50 bucks. All it
has to do is blow more air than you can breath in, which isn't hard to do.
-- Jim in NC
Lotsa good info here and I appreciate it all. I've contributed a little
over $300 for the steel in this project so I'm looking for some economy from
this point on but I do want a durable product. I'll be doing my research.
Special thanks to Gordon Ponsford for his e-mails.
On Thu, 3 Mar 2011 01:16:33 -0800 (PST), lektric dan
Rust conversion primer or paint is NOT required on clean rust-free
metal. Not even the best choice.
You need something to provide "tooth" - sand blasting works well - as
does an etching primer.
Then you need something to provide rust protection. Zinc works real
good for that - galvanizing works on the principal of a sacrificial
coating - and zinc rich primers do the same
Then you need a good sealer. DuPont Corlar is one excellent product of
this type. It is an epoxy and impervious to just about anything.
Dupont PercoTop basically combines the two, and does not require an
etch if applied to freshly blasted clean steel.
Topcoating with DuPont Imron will give you just about as durable and
rust-resistant finish you can get - and both products CAN be
electrostatically sprayed, making the application extremely efficient.
Based on you're fire dep't experience, think you'll recognize the
risks of spraying 2 part LP yacht finishes such as Imron, Awl Grip,
etc without the proper safety equipment, including some kind of
temporary spray booth.
Catalyzed resin in your lungs is a slow painful death.
You could apply with a brush; however, getting a good finish on a
fence would be a bitch.
Matter of fact, spraying or brushing a fence would be a bear.
Powder coating offers a lot of advantages, not the least being long
Since this is a civic project, should be several means of securing
some donations to offset the powder coating costs.
We've found a source for the paint job. Casa Ford body shop has
It won't be powder coated but it will get clear coated.
And you're right about FD experience and familiarity with
toxic substances, breathing protection, TLVs, etc.
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