I'm cutting and sawing tember for a 24'x32' cabin. I plan to sheet the
walls and floor with tounge and groove poplar (no plywood thank you) and
then side the walls with ship-lap and I'm trying to decide how to do that
without breaking the bank with a muli thousand dollar spindle moulder. I'm
also going to make pine flooring so my joints will have to be pretty good.
Suggestions for methods and equipment appreciated. This rainy, snowy,
freezing W.Va. weather is making the felling and sawing a real pain.
from experience: do not try tu use the table saw with a dadoo blade!!!!
the advices that were given to me (and that I did not follow:-() were:
- router bit (for smaller job)
- get someone to do it for you!
- get a moulding head for your table saw
A router bit set would work great if you have a large router and good
router table and fence. That could be had for $600 for what I would
consider top of the line.
You could also use a moulder and run the boards through ganged up on
edge if the boards aren't too wide.
Have you added up the number of lineal feet you'll be putting tongue and
grooves in? I think a tablesaw with a molding head is going to be the most
inexpensive way to do it. Make a dedicated jig to hold the stock
perpendicular to the molding head. Add an outfeed table to the saw to
stabilize the work and purchase a diamond hone to touch up the blades as
needed and a few sets of replacement blades for both the tongue and groove
I believe Pat Warmer's site has reference someplace as to how many lineal
feet you can expect to route from one bit before it needs sharpening and/or
replacing. A shaper would be nice also since it's a lot lower speed than a
router. For the amount of work you'll be doing (whole house) I think the
router bearing will be worn out long before you're done and you'll have
spent a small fortune on carbide bits.
Do you have a decent table saw? Doesn't need to be a cabinet saw but it
will get a good workout by the time you're done.
On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:42:44 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Doug
A Stanley #48 T&G plane (or a #45) would work well and cost
little, Q. You mightcould whip all that out in under a week,
and the little woman will love your, abs, shoulders, and arms
after that really good workout.
BTW, it's spelled "tongue and groove".
P.S: Got aspirin?
Vidi, Vici, Veni
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
I did a barn - about 45x50
all the floors were locally sawn 8/4 pine (green). Grooved on 4 sides (3/4"
x 3/4") with a router, and plywood splines inserted to keep the shrinkage
crakcs filled, and to keep the floor more or less flat. Worked like a charm.
Easy to form, easy to lay. I did burn out a PC690 router (it was what I had
on hand), but it only cost me about 100 bucks to replce the motor....
If I had to do it again, I'd get a bigger router (unless I could justify a
They do sell T&G router bit sets. If you have a decent fixed base
router you can make a simple table for it and do it that way. Don't
economize on the router bit though. Buy quality carbide router bits.
If you T&G the pine you should also clean the resin buildup on the
bits with something like Boeshield Blade and Bit....you'll have to do
You are gonna hear all the different ways to do it...
Router, table saw, shaper, etc. but you can NOT do it
as cheap as a mill setup to produce t&g material.
The last time I looked, t&g clear pine was selling for
well under $2.00 bf, which you will be hard pressed to
produce in the quality and quantity.
Some times it's better to pay up.... and get on with
Agree here. I have a T&G bit I've used for cabinets, and it's a royal
PITA. T&G is fine for small projects, but if you're talking about a
whole room, and floor... man. You'll wear out a T&G router bit ($75 +
for mine) and maybe a router.
Another choice is cut a 1/4" groove & spline it.
Pat Barber wrote:
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