Making tounge and groove

[QWeaver]

I'm cutting and sawing tember for a 24'x32' cabin. I plan to sheet the walls and floor with tounge and groove poplar (no plywood thank you) and then side the walls with ship-lap and I'm trying to decide how to do that without breaking the bank with a muli thousand dollar spindle moulder. I'm also going to make pine flooring so my joints will have to be pretty good. Suggestions for methods and equipment appreciated. This rainy, snowy, freezing W.Va. weather is making the felling and sawing a real pain. QL

[brianlanning]

A router bit set would work great if you have a large router and good router table and fence. That could be had for $600 for what I would consider top of the line.

You could also use a moulder and run the boards through ganged up on edge if the boards aren't too wide.

brian

[Cyrille de Brébisson]

hello,

from experience: do not try tu use the table saw with a dadoo blade!!!!

the advices that were given to me (and that I did not follow:-() were:

- router bit (for smaller job)

- get someone to do it for you!

- get a moulding head for your table saw

regards, cyrille

[Teamcasa]

Buy the spindle moulder, use it for the job then sell it. I did this with a tile cutter I used for mounths and lost less than $100.

Dave

Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services

---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **

----------------------------------------------------------

[pat]

[Bob S]

Have you added up the number of lineal feet you'll be putting tongue and grooves in? I think a tablesaw with a molding head is going to be the most inexpensive way to do it. Make a dedicated jig to hold the stock perpendicular to the molding head. Add an outfeed table to the saw to stabilize the work and purchase a diamond hone to touch up the blades as needed and a few sets of replacement blades for both the tongue and groove cuts.

I believe Pat Warmer's site has reference someplace as to how many lineal feet you can expect to route from one bit before it needs sharpening and/or replacing. A shaper would be nice also since it's a lot lower speed than a router. For the amount of work you'll be doing (whole house) I think the router bearing will be worn out long before you're done and you'll have spent a small fortune on carbide bits.

Do you have a decent table saw? Doesn't need to be a cabinet saw but it will get a good workout by the time you're done.

Bob S.

[Doug Payne]

Got any hardwood flooring manufacturers nearby? If so, ask what they might charge for the millwork.

[jd]

I did a barn - about 45x50

all the floors were locally sawn 8/4 pine (green). Grooved on 4 sides (3/4" x 3/4") with a router, and plywood splines inserted to keep the shrinkage crakcs filled, and to keep the floor more or less flat. Worked like a charm. Easy to form, easy to lay. I did burn out a PC690 router (it was what I had on hand), but it only cost me about 100 bucks to replce the motor....

If I had to do it again, I'd get a bigger router (unless I could justify a shaper...)

YMMV

--JD

[Layne]

They do sell T&G router bit sets. If you have a decent fixed base router you can make a simple table for it and do it that way. Don't economize on the router bit though. Buy quality carbide router bits. If you T&G the pine you should also clean the resin buildup on the bits with something like Boeshield Blade and Bit....you'll have to do this often.

Layne

[Larry Jaques]

On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:42:44 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Doug Payne quickly quoth:

A Stanley #48 T&G plane (or a #45) would work well and cost little, Q. You mightcould whip all that out in under a week, and the little woman will love your, abs, shoulders, and arms after that really good workout.

BTW, it's spelled "tongue and groove".

P.S: Got aspirin?

-- Vidi, Vici, Veni ---

Comprehensive Website Development

[Pat Barber]

You are gonna hear all the different ways to do it...

Router, table saw, shaper, etc. but you can NOT do it as cheap as a mill setup to produce t&g material.

The last time I looked, t&g clear pine was selling for well under $2.00 bf, which you will be hard pressed to produce in the quality and quantity.

Some times it's better to pay up.... and get on with your life.

QWeaver wrote:

[saulgoode]

Agree here. I have a T&G bit I've used for cabinets, and it's a royal PITA. T&G is fine for small projects, but if you're talking about a whole room, and floor... man. You'll wear out a T&G router bit ($75 + for mine) and maybe a router.

Another choice is cut a 1/4" groove & spline it.

- Saul

Pat Barber wrote:

[janahartzell]

HI, Have you concidered board and battens? Jana

QWeaver wrote: