Yeah, I thought about that...but I want the extra height that the arch
offers, so we are making them part of the door. Believe me, separating them
would make things a LOT easier, simply because we have very low headroom...
I had both these issues with my doors.
1) Dragging: Four 3' sectioned bi-fold. I put a caster on the inner
doors at the fold.
2) 9' 6" door, 8' lumber. I made a flip up section across the top. Piano
hinged it to the header. Two screws hold it closed. Only needed to open
it once in 3 ears.
I like the design you have drawn. When I looked at the picture
with the openings I thought roll-up doors would look wrong, but
your design looks quite appropriate.
One thing you might consider would be bi-fold, but I don't
know how you would handle the automatic opener.
Yeah, I think the roll-up is going to be easier to seal. I can sort
of think of ways to seal a bi-fold (folding out) with top and bottom
sealing strips inside, but roll-up would be much easier.
Can't wait to see you post pictures of a finished door.
Believe it or not, but one of TOH shows had a bit about doors that
looked like they were sliders, but were actually roll up doors. Why not
contavt TOH at www.TOH.com or www.askTOH.com and find out the vender
Check out my Web Page at:
Where you will find:
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On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 13:16:55 -0500, "Austin Franklin"
I made my gara^H^H^H^H shop doors, four hinged panels opening
vertically (like regular doors) 11 or 12 years ago. So I used regular
door hinges (ball bearing, 3 to a panel). The have lasted up to now,
no problems, although they are desperately crying out for a new coat
Construction method was a sandwich of two 1/8 lauan door skins
(plywood) and 1-1/2" styrofoam. The edges were 1-1/2" by 1-1/2"
western red cedar. Everything glued together with Weldbond (I don't
think other "weatherproof" catalyzed PVA glues like Titebond II were
available then, at least not in my neck of the woods.) Also put in
some cedar blocks where the hardware would need to be (e.g.for door
To make it look like a frame and panel construction, I glued suitably
edge-moulded 1X cedar on the outside of the panel. (3/4 X 3" for the
stiles and top and middle rail, 5" for the bottom rail. So the total
thickness is 2-1/2 inches.
To prevent air infiltration (very important, I'm in the Yukon), I just
glued a 1X4 to the vertical edges on the inside. The 1X4 overlaps the
adjacent panel by about 1". Regular weatherstripping on the frame.
The main problems in construction were keeping them flat and ensuring
sufficient clamping pressure, especially in the middle. To keep them
flat, I made a temporary 2X4 and plywood table and added a few sheets
of drywall & plywood on it. For the pressure, I made 4 cauls (slightly
longer than the doors) out of the best straight SPF 2X4s I could find.
I hand-planed a slight convex curve to them (about 1/4" down at each
end), so that when I applied pressure to the clamps at each end, the
pressure would be applied in the middle first, and by the time the
clamps were reefed down, there was pressure the full length of the
Of course, I can't use an automatic garage door opener, but like
Charlie is quite rightly fond of saying, cars are made to stay
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
"Man is a tool-using animal. Weak in himself and of small stature,
he stands on a basis of some half-square foot, has to straddle out
his legs lest the very winds supplant him. Nevertheless, he can
use tools, can devise tools: with these the granite mountain melts
into light dust before him: seas are his smooth highway, winds and
fire his unwearying steeds. Nowhere do you find him without tools.
Without tools he is nothing: with tools he is all."
I was going to make some doors for an enclosed carport but then moved.
Here's a link to instructions for a double door of the kind I was
interested in building:
You might find some good ideas there. These are basically torsion
boxes, which make sense for great insulation.
I've been following this thread but haven't posted because I didn't have
anything to add.
That may still be true after this message... <g>
I wonder... could tambour be scaled up to garage door size?
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