Just the 'obvious' one -- use a shim to wedge the stock a an angle to the
'reference plane' (presumably the _back_ of the miter bed), such that it is
"mumble point 6" degrees off 'true'. Then set the miter saw to the appropriate
number of whole degrees, so that the comination gives the desired 70.6 angle.
Note: depending on which way you swing the blade, you may need to set the shim
wedge angle to "mumble point 4" degrees.
Set it for 71 and give it a tap, or the left handed version is to set it to
70 and tap the other side. 1/10th of a degree is important for a moon shot,
but I doubt you're going to tell it on anything in wood. What is the
humidity today? Tomorrow?
Any reason to limit yourself to the table and miter saws?
Consider the following:
tan70.6 = 2.8396 or 2.84 for wood working purposes.
Lay out a triangle using trig function above with a vertical of 2.84
and a horizontal of 1.0.
Strike a line connecting the two points (hypotenuse) then cut proud of
this line with a hand saw (circular, saber, etc), then follow up with
a straight edge clamped in place and a router with a pattern bit.
You now have a triangle with 70.6 degrees as one internal angle.
Use triangle as a gauge to set angle needed.
On 02/16/2010 07:27 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Some more options:
1) Lay out the angle using geometry, set a bevel gauge to it, use that
to set the saw.
2) Take a bevel gauge, set it to 70.6 using the wixey and your tablesaw
top. Use the bevel gauge to set the saw.
3) If your stock isn't too wide you could stand it on edge and use the
bevel angle and your wixey.
4) Lay the saw on its back and zero out the wixey on the fence, then use
it to set the angle.
5) Buy an angle gauge. $5 for a plastic one, $25 for a digital one.
You could always layout the 70.6 line on a sled, then tack in a cleat
on the line.
Simple fast, but doesn't leave a permanet record if you need to repeat
the process down the road as a triangle does.
A $10 scientific calculator is in the same category as a dial vernier
caliper in the shop IMHO.
Both are very useful.
Want to thank all of you who responded to my question.
After consideration, I've decided that the "close enough" effort
(half way between 70 and 71, with a SLIGHT bump to 70) is
good for me.
As much as I would love to deal with a geometry question, my
math interests are more towards the theoretical these days (Riemann
Zeta Function anyone?), which can cause many hours of brain freeze.
It's interesting that a set of plans would have such an odd angle
to cut, when no tool that I know of, would allow you to make a
precision cut like 70.6 degrees.
On 2/17/2010 7:34 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Depends upon the size of your project. 1/10 degree of angle will put you
around 1/64+, at 12"; 3/64*" off at 24"; and 5/64+" at 4'; mas or menas.
That could be unacceptable for some projects.
I routinely use my digital angle gauge and the table saw to cut angles
to .1 degrees, cut a reference angle in a piece of scrap, and use it to
set up any other tool, miter saw, etc.
Or, you can set a bevel gauge to the angle of the table saw
blade/reference piece and transfer it wherever.
We all know it's woodworking, but it never hurts to endeavor to be as
precise as possible at every step because error becomes cumulative down
the road and around the corners.
Attention to detail is the difference between mediocrity and supremacy.
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