I work with mahogany quite a bit and I absolutely agree with Steve. Little-
Abner, if I were you I would stay away from any poly-urethane glue,
regardless of brand name. The Tite-bond works extremely well and does not
tend to degrade with age. I have found that urethane glue do degrade.
Steve Turner wrote:
As another said, being shipped as a knockdown may well mean it's
mechanically fastened; much is. Then again, if it's a kit it may be
intended to be glued.
If it is, as another said, any of the wood glues will work; not only a
yellow glue but plain old white wood glue is about as strong.
The only question would be whether one thought there was potential to
want to knock it down again in the future; in that case one would choose
hide glue as it is reversible.
Just whatever you choose, do not use one of the "gorilla glue" types for
What about it?
It (the original which is what I'm speaking of--I understand they have
introduced a wood glue which I don't know about) is a polyurethane glue
which has nothing to recommend it for woodworking other than if one
needed true waterproof glue for outdoor exposed use. It isn't as strong
in tests as "ordinary" PVA glues (Titebond, Elmer's, whoever) although
that's not the prime dissatisfaction; that is reserved for the long
drying time and the foaming it is susceptible to...
All in all, it's not of much value for general woodworking.
I tried it a couple of times and tossed it as far as I could. Pain in
the butt even if it did give strong joints, which it doesn't
If you need waterproof go with epoxy or resorcinonl-formaldehyde. If
you need almost-waterproof go with Weldwood plastic resin or Titebond 3.
For general use any of the Titebond family works fine.
Good for butcher-block type lamination, won't dull sharp
tools. Holds up quite well to weather. I have a cellar
window case I glued in ten years ago with cheaper Elmer's
brand urethane glue which still looks new.
Otherwise, type I carpenter's glue is ideal for bonding
open grained mahogany.
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