Which model, specifically? There are some DW that are quite old but
were just homeowner models I'd not pay much attention to; otoh, some of
them were "the real mcCoy"...
Secondly, for what purpose do you envision using it? I suspect the
utility you'll get will be in large part on what else you already have
and what you plan on doing going forward.
I've an old 16" one which I use for length-cutting and heavier work that
isn't nearly as simple to move the work thrue the TS and that it doesn't
have the capacity for. I've the room to have it set up in a long bench
with 8' either end for permanent support and the full barn length
alleyway in one direction if needs be. As long as I've the room I'll
never let it go, but it isn't the primary in terms of amount of use by
any stretch--but when it's needed, there's nothing else that can touch
it. It's heavy enough that it is, and stays, in adjustment.
As Leon, my first was one of the small 10" DeWalt's and I used it
exclusively for quite some time before buying the TS (I waited 'til
could afford the PM Model 66). It was adequate, but underpowered and
lightweight so took a fair amount of fiddling to keep it aligned. But,
there are things that are fair simpler w/ a RAS as compared to the TS
just as vice versa...
It won't be my primary tool for cutting, but I do have the room to
dedicate to it (I think.) I've seen some shop designs where they put the
SCMS and RAS next to each other, so both tools share the same work space.
It would be nice to set the RAS for a dado cut and SCMS for cut-off duty,
especially on this next project.
Cross-cutting dadoes is really my biggest thing. I figure for what I put
into a RAS, if it makes the next project easier then doesn't get used
much afterwards it'll probably be worth it.
Well that sounds like a good plan! I cut lot's of dado's so a dedicated
machine would be nice. Keep in mind however that it is seldom that
plywood comes in uniform thicknesses any more so you will still have to
tweak your set up.
I don't know what model it is. The seller didn't get a clear shot of the
model/info label, and hasn't sent me that information. It's a 9" model,
looks to be pre-AMF:
I think it's either a GS or MBF, but that's only from looking at pictures
The project I have in mind is cutting decorative dados in 4x4s for a
deck. It's a hassle to do it on the table saw (with a sled), so I
figured for the $100 or so a RAS sells for around here I could make that
part of the project much easier. You couldn't rent one for that.
Of course no one can say whether he'd be held liable or not (courts
can do just about anything - and do) but in reality, that's what
liability insurance is for and why I carry a million dollar umbrella.
It may not cover someone burning their lip on a cup of coffee but it
will get the insurance company interested in defending me.
Wasn't really aware ofomh there was an actual 9" version, that'll be
fairly limiting in depth if a 10" blade really won't fit, but it's the
solid-carriage design and as long as it's not obviously just falling off
the rails for the price couldn't lose I'd guess.
Ayup, those are the kinds of things the RAS beats pants off TS
for--where it's so much easier to move the saw than the material.
Go for it...
Sadly, you are too true. (and the houses are not) The best houses I've
seen over the last 20 years are the "factory built" houses they bring
in on a number of flatbeads and erect with a crane. Generally they are
One of the funniest things I ever saw was a whole house that was framed with
all the verticals except the corners half a stud off from one end to the
other. Obviously two "framers" working together. One centering on the
mark, and the other butting up to the mark. I had sent one of my guys over
to prewire it for alarm and sound, and we had half a dozen boxes or so to
mount for various things like keypads, volume controls, sounders, etc. My
guy had bought a bundle of door shims and shimmed every one of our boxes so
they were level. When the house was done every other box in the house was
crooked. LOL. Switches, outlets, even the thermostats.
First things I would want to know is there enough threaded arbor
to accept an 8" stacked dado set?
Are there adequate clearances to accept an 8" stacked dado set?
Even though you were thinking about the wrong tool, there were useful
suggestions in your post. Checking the cord is a good suggestion, and worn
bearings could indicate the tool is more of a project than a ready-to-use
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