Leuf (in email@example.com) said:
|| I'm planning to install about 400 feet of (three layered) crown
|| molding in 5 rooms with several outside corners.
| I've never done crown moulding but why would you need a level? If
| you need a line for the bottom of the moulding why not cut a board
| to the right width and just mark along the bottom? You want the
| line to follow the ceiling not necessarily be level, don't you?
Damn! I used to have a file named applause.wav for occasions like this
DeSoto, Iowa USA
For your project, I'd go with the chalk line. You have two end points, and
they're on a fixed surface, so you're in pretty good shape.
I've found laser levels (especially the ones with multiple lasers at 90
degree angles) to be useful for two things. First, they're great for
lining up things where you don't have a good surface to snap a chalk line
on, e.g. grassy ground. I used one to lay out border stone around some
trees, and to line up a section of decorative fence. It's also great for
finding a square when there's no square surface nearby. The walls in my
house were put up by people who fear straight lines, so when I put tile in
an entryway, finding a true square was made much less painful with two of
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
The self leveling kind are the best. IMO, it seems like a waste to
spend cash on a laser line that still requires a mechanical level.
I bought the black & decker from HD that has vertical and horizontal
lines, self leveling, and can be hung from a strap at any level. I
used it when framing my basement, and finding the studs when
drywalling. It really works well.
I can't recall the price $80-$100 I believe.
if you have a camera tripod, I think it will attach to this.
I just had reason to use a laser level. I bought a cheap Black and
Decker (BDL400S) for $30 (? I think?; NOT much more than that, fer
I used it to strike a level line across 6 4X4 posts (3 old and 3 new)
that hold up my patio cover. It's not the 360 deg kind, I had to
strike the level line sequentially across the first 3 posts, then from
the 1st to the 4th, and from the 4th through 5th and 6th. The
longest span was ~25 ft. Most importantly, I was able to use it
It worked perfectly, saved a LOT of time, and the results were great.
The patio cover came out perfectly, with all rafters and supports
measuring perfectly "level" on a 4-ft bubble level.
I havent had much luck with "leveling" at all. Id rather make the
surfaces "align" than level. Sometimes the room itself is not level and
your leveling can look off because of this. I found this a lot in
hanging pictures and drapes, etc.
One room has long windows in my house and the ceiling is not aligned
with the windows but you coudnt tell since its all white. When I hung
curtains I was stuck not knowing if I should align to windows or
ceiling. In the end I aligned to ceiling since you cant see the window
line once the drape was installed. This was a redo. The first install I
did with a B&D laser level, and it didnt match either window or ceiling.
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
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