Large spade bits

[Buddy Matlosz]

I need 2", but can't find anything larger than 1-1/2. Anyone know of a source?

Thx, B.

[Stoutman]

Nope.

Can you make a 1-1/2" hole than make a 1/2" rabbet with a router. Followed up by a flush trim bit referenced off of the rabbet?

Stoutman

[Lew Hodgett]

Buddy Matlosz wrote: > I need 2", but can't find anything larger than 1-1/2. Anyone know of a > source?

If nothing else but from a point of safety, I'd use a hole saw.

Lew

[sheldon.mandel]

how about a forstner bit?

[mac davis]

No, and I'd be sort of scared to use one...

Won't a forstner bit work? Mac

[Bill Hall]

Have you considered a Stanley Handyman, Expansive bit (no. 129).I have one that bores holes from 7/8 " to 3 ". A little scary in a slow drill press, but it works!

[Buddy Matlosz]

I need to drill a series of vent holes in the plywood soffit that was recently replaced under my garage roof. I drilled the first couple with a Forstner, but working overhead is kinda tough on my arthritic shoulders, I was hoping a spade bit would make it go quicker and easier.

B.

[lwasserm]

I was doing this same job a few years ago and used a holesaw. If you get a good quality saw like a Morse or Starret, they have slots that make it fairly easy to remove the plug.

Actually, I was replacing a section of rain gutter. We had had insualtion blown into the attic the previous year and I wanted to install soffit vents, so I figured while I was climbing up the ladder (about 26 ft to the soffets) I'd do both jobs at the same time. I can tell you, climbing up and down that ladder, moving it a few feet each time gets old. Anyway, as I neared an end I had one hole left to drill in the gutter. I removed the holesaw from my to switch to a plain twist drill but I dropped it. Damn! I did NOT want to o down and up that ladder even one more time!

I looked at that holesaw, with it's pilot bit sticking out about 3/8" or whatever past the saw teeth, and thought to myself, "Sure I can drill through the aluminum gutter real careful like, stop the drill as soon as it breaks through, install the last gutter hanger, and I'll be done."

Well, the pilot drill went through the aluminum but I was not successful at stopping the drill in time. The hole saw hit the gutter, snagged on it, tore off a 2 foot section, twisted around, and damn near pulled me off the ladder. I think it was right after that that I bought a second cordless drill.

[Lew Hodgett]

Given your application, definitely would NOT suggest a hole saw or a spade bit.

Since you already have the forstner bit and the drill, find an 18 year old to do the drilling.

Lew

[Buddy Matlosz]

Yeah, then I can drill HER afterwards - helluvan idea!

B.

[Lew Hodgett]

Works for me.

Lew

[J. Clarke]

Seems to me to be an ideal application for a hole saw. Using a Forstner to make through-holes in plywood seems to me to be a waste of energy.

[David Merrill]

Hope you're planning to place screened louvers in those holes to keep the rodents and hornets out. Two inch sounds a bit small. Should not the total flow area of the soffit vents approximately equal the exhaust flow area of the gable or ridge vents. A two inch spade bit in a hand held power drill at the top of a ladder might just wrench those arthritic shoulders sufficiently to help you forget all about soffits. I suspect that the bit manufacturers' liability lawyers have thought of that and decided not to market very large spade bits.

How about some standard, screened, 6x12" soffit louvers installed over correctly sized cutouts made with a jigsaw in the hands of a younger, insured person. Medical costs are really high these days.

David Merrill

[Teamcasa]

Goggle a Milwaukee self feed bit -

Dave

[Whatmeworry]

Ditto that. And see if you can rent a Milwaukee hole hawg drill at a rental shop. I do construction for a living and that would be my tool of choice for the job.

Lou

[mac davis]

I've found that one of those saw tooth forstner bits are pretty fast on something like plywood... lot less vibration than a spade bit, too.. the vibration is what messes up my body..

I think I'd probably try a hole saw with a right angle drill.. easier on the shoulder when you're working over head..

Also, it's a lot cheaper and easier to pay a neighborhood kid $20 to do the grunt work and save your body for the fun stuff... *g*

Mac

[mac davis]

Put her on top.. easier on the shoulder.. lol

Also remember to be there holding the ladder..

Mac

[Lew Hodgett]

Normally I would agree, but in this application, you are standing on a ladder drilling overhead without the benefit of a right angle drill.

A 2" hole saw is going to bind during cutting.

When it does, your wrists and hands will thank you if you are using a right angle drill.

If you are using a straight drill, you are going to wish you hadn't.

It is strictly a safety issue.

Lew

[Buddy Matlosz]

I didn't want to go into this much detail, but I guess there's no choice now. I couldn't find a good picture or plan of the way this garage is constructed, but this photo of a lean-to shed gives a pretty good idea:

garage is constructed and attached to the house just like the shed in the picture, but has a footprint of about 12' x 24'. The roof has an even shallower angle than the one shown, it's almost flat. Inside the garage, the ceiling consists of sheet rock attached directly to the roof joists, there are no rafters (hope I'm using the right terms). The house is about 60 years old, the garage was an add-on and I don't know the age.

I really didn't know much about roof ventilation until after I started this thread and started to research it. I know now that soffit vents are intended to be used in conjunction with gable, ridge, or roof vents, but in this design there's no place to put them. Any suggestions? There was originally no ventilation provided, is it even required in this roof design?

Buddy

[David Merrill]

I don't know. Did a little searching; found this:

?t=205770 it helps.

Are you seeing signs of water or sun damage that causes you to consider the possible need for ventilation? Or, is this one of those "if it isn't broken, don't fix it" situations? Do you live in an area with a building code inspector who is familiar with local conditions and might be willing to answer this question?

David Merrill