In a separate thread, a discussion has evolved to discussing the difference
between the quality of a surface prepared by a jointer and that of a rip
from a tablesaw.
I believe that if all of the equipment is setup properly, all blades are
quality ones, sharp and the procedures are sound, a jointer will still
render a better quality surface than a tablesaw time and time again.
used properly either tool can produce a surface siutable for glue
adhesion as well as a surface with whatever tool marks there are small
enough to escape the unaided eye. if you're getting out the magnifying
glass all bets are off.
a well tuned table saw with a good quality sharp blade is a joy to
Intuitively, it feels like the jointer should win even in the
best conditions for the tablesaw. Each cut of the jointer is
done by one blade which is a straight line moving to form a
cylinder. You now concatenate very close cylinder surfaces,
so the finish should be very smooth.
With the tablesaw, you achieve the cut plane surface by
concatenating parallel circular lines -- if you move the
wood too fast, it would tend to form grooves (you would have
a surface akin to an old vinyl record -- an LP). If you
move it slowly, it's better, but it still sounds like the
surface should be more irregular than in the other case.
I'm no expert, BTW, but this is what my intuition tells me.
depends on the tooth pattern. a saw blade made for finish cuts has big
teeth with fairly long faces. the edge of the faces is a cutting
surface which overlaps the cutting surface of the previous tooth.
it's not just cutting at the tips.....
there are several models of glueline ripsaws in the commercial field the most
prevalent being the deihls, these critters achieve a cut line that will rival
jointers and have been around for a lot of years but they depend on the feed
systems to make them that accurate most people use their fence to joint with
and it relies on the opposite edge of the board. there are power feed units for
the medium and large shop model table saws but the can't match the length and
grip of a feed chain. other major considerations are the rigidity of the blade
and mounts, just an observation from a diehl 52 owner
I think the Freud crosscut blade makes a damn fine cut, and I don't
imagine the rip blade is inferior in any way. I would think the
answer would depend on how nice a jointer you were using, but after a
certain point, I doubt it matters much- they're both excellent.
Interesting reading...whereas I religiously make a habit of ripping wide and
then truing-up on the jointer, it now occurs to me that the little fuzzy
surface on the saw-cut may actually provide for a better glue-up than the
jointer produced glass surface. Will have to experiment.
Couple of thoughts:
The jointer, or at least all those I have seen (I wonder if this will
be one of those why-didn't-I-think-of-that innovations a few years
down the road) has knives that cut perpindicular to the grain, with no
shear at all. Depending on the pattern, saw blades can have at least
a little shear, which should make for a cleaner cut.
Sawblades are usually carbide, jointer knives usually steel. The
steel knives can be sharper at the outset, but will get dull quickly
and then not be as clean.
Usually, the saw blade is going right through the wood, possibly
flexing slightly and marring the cut. I usually have my jointer set
to a depth of 1/64" or less - at that depth, there is never any
tearout, and even with old knives I get a very clean edge.
There's a company, the name of which escapes me, that sells jointer
heads that use carbide inserts. The inserts are set so that they cut
the wood at an angle to the grain. No, I'm not talking about Grizzly.
Scary tools. I note they don't show the cutterhead in the photos. I hadn't
thought of one of these in probably 20 years. OK if used with almost excessive
care, but it's easy to understand why Delta quit making them.
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington
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