I promise I am not a troll. I fooled with the router table yesterday
trying to do what you said. What I realized is, my fence is all one
piece. When you adjust the outfeed side, the infeed side moves as well
if that makes sense. In this scenario, how do you get the infeed table
1/32 lower than the outfeed table? My router and table is a ryobi from
home depot I believe.
Router fences are often designed to be even because that's what you
almost always want, and it makes for a simpler/cheaper design. The only
thing I can suggest is either replace the fence or and/remove material
from one of the sides.
Or do it the easy (faster) way. Take a strait board and do whatever needed
to mount it to the router table. Put a notch in the middle of one edge for
the bit. On the outfeed side, use a piece of double sided tape to stick a
piece of plastic laminate, plastic sheet, sheetmetal or anything else about
the right thickness. Jointer fence, fast and simple.
Stick a piece of Formica to the outfeed side.
It is harder to set up a fence that way as you have to precisely adjust
the amount of cut of the bit but it is about all you can do. With a
split fence, you can set up the infeed fence and bit, cut a few inches
and move the outfeed fence out to the cut edge...much easier.
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Norm just showed exactly how to do this on "Router 101" part 2, which
aired yesterday on my local PBS station. The "slide the outfeed side
against the cut edge" method looks a lot easier than trying to get the
two halves of the fence precisely parallel and even with the bit by
Edwin Pawlowski (in _%wIf.344$ email@example.com)
|| It's "half a sixteenth". <G>
| Which half?
The small half.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Here's what you do... mount a 1/2" or greater straight bit (if you
have one) into your router (if you have one) mount that router into a
router table (if you have one)... put on a pair of safety glasses and
maybe a face mask and some shin guards... grab a pine board, recite
the Lord's Prayer once or twice and just dive in with both feet.
You'll figure it out. Be very aware of where your fingers are at all
times and let me know how you make out with it.
Best of luck,
I had this discussion recently with somone via e-mail. The conclusion was to
consider one of the generally cheaper 6" long bed jointers such as
Here's a suggestion: gamble $15 and run a want ad in your local paper.
I was planning on buying a new 14" bandsaw this winter and on a whim
decided to run an want ad right after the holidays. I ended up getting
offers for six band saws, including three that I thought were real
steals. I bought a Jet 14" (with aftermarket fence, Carter guides,
three speed kit, a bunch of blades, etc.) for $225. The receipts the
guy had in the manual say he spent about $900 for the whole mess four
years ago, and the saw had barely been used. I'm sure there are as
many unused jointers laying around collecting dust, so give it a shot.
I ran my ad in the "Building Materials and Tools" section of our paper
for a week; all the calls came on the second weekend so be patient.
I've been happy with my Sunhill SM-150 (www.sunhillmachinery.com).
That said, I've just ordered an 8" jointer from Grizzly just because I found
I was always looking at face jointing 6-7" boards.
A table top jointer has very little use. Why don't you just buy a good
quality hand plane? Veritas from Lee Valley is a wise choice. It will last
forever and you will learn its true value.
An old solid oak tree is just a nut that refused to give up.
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