jointer decision

[Upscale]

Nothing to be embarrassed about. Hell, Lee Valley sells shims for jointing on the router.

[Steve Turner]

Only if the face opposite the blades is already flat, or can be made to appear flat by affixing it to a sled (as Leon described in another branch of this thread) so the board doesn't shift on the non-flat face as it's passing through the planer.

[-MIKE-]

Right, gotcha. Affix it to something that is long and flat, which will ride the planer's bottom surface. Then flip. Otherwise the knives would just follow the contour of the board's un-flat bottom.

[Sean S]

No. (at least, I hope not...) I have very limited space and budget, and do my jointing on the router table too. It took a little practice to get the bit perfectly set to the shimmed outfeed fence (sounds easier than it is), and you have to make sure the fences are perfectly flat and co-planer to start, and the bit is standing exactly 90 from the table surface; but once I got that, no problems. I built my fence somewhat beefy anticipating doing this, and that helps too. The other "trick" I found is to only take a tiny bit off with each pass, ie, use a small shim. 3 or 4 small passes >>>> 1 or 2 big ones. (as is usually true with about anything on the router table). OTOH, not a single person has looked at my work and said "hey, you used a router table to joint those edges, didn't you!".

Sean

[Ed Edelenbos]

Before I had a jointer, and after I became unhappy with the results of the tablesaw I had at the time, I did a lot of bookmatched pieces (soundboards and backs of guitars and dulcimers and such) that way. I forget who made 'em but I found some extra long (1.5") bits just for router jointing.

Ed

[-MIKE-]

That's not extra long. This is extra long.

I have one 3 inches. [insert joke here]

[Ed Edelenbos]

I'm not touching that one.

Ed

[-MIKE-]

Please don't. I'm happily married.

[John Grossbohlin]

Keep in mind though that the guy may not have it set up well, e.g., knives not well adjusted, outfeed table at wrong height, etc.) and that he may not use proper technique... It could be a fine and dandy machine but the "test" may suggest it's not.

John

[Larry Blanchard]

Face jointing? Edge jointing can be done several different ways, but face jointing pretty much requires a jointer or some kind of sled (for planer or router).

[-MIKE-]

Speaking of which, if anyone has pictures of their sleds for this purpose, please post them.

[Tom Watson]

Yeah, I'm right there with ya, Leon. I have an 8" Grizz that replaced an 8 " Delta and the sumbitch hardly gets used at all.

I'm working in a production environment now and all the glue joints are done on a stright line ripsaw.

The joints are perfect.

Even before that I would hotmelt a fence onto something that I wanted to joint on the tablesaw, rather than use the jointer.

I did my face prep on a lunchbox planer and took the high side down slow until it got level and then flipped it. It was a lot easier and wound up being more accurate.

If anyone wants to buy a hardly used Grizz 8", I'm entertaining offers.

tom

d Regards,

Tom Watson

[Leon]

LOL Tom I think for many of us the jointer is a machine that we haf'ta have and then 20 or so years later realize that there are often easier ways to achieve the same results with out using the jointer and then there it sets. I really and truly have kept it around because it is heavy and I used to keep the "shop dog" tied up to it, that was its purpose in my shop. The current Great Dane is a puss and really does not care that much for the shop. I think I used my "PC DETAIL SANDER" more than my jointer if that tells you any thing. You are thinking of selling yours, I am considering giving mine away. Like minds. ;~)

[CC]

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message news:lOOdnTnCgomqOf_UnZ2dnUVZ [e-mail]...

I'll keep that in mind too and bring a straight edge to check the tables to see if they are warped or flat too. CC

[CC]

given that, I would make an offer but it wouldn't fit and like the carrier, part would have to stick out the door to be able to use it, With the rains we have, I'd never be able to afford the top coat LOL CC

[Leon]

I can e-mail you PDF plans if you like.

[-MIKE-]

Sure, why not....thanks.

Take out the DOT

[Leon]

On it's way.

[-MIKE-]

Got it... pershee-ate it.

[Jack Stein]

I have an old iron Rockwell Delta 6" jointer. It is not the least used tool in my shop but perhaps is the least needed tool. I'd say my lathe is the least used but when I need a lathe, you need a lathe. It's rare I actually "need" my jointer and it would be one of the last tools I would buy.

I generally don't need to joint stuff ripped on the Tsaw, but I often do it because it is super easy and it's right there.

That makes no sense to me, unless your jointer is not in the right place, or not set up right?

I seldom use the jointer to face plane anything other than logs I salvage from fire wood, pallets and what not. I'll joint one face, then use that face to make a 90 and then it's easy to rip on the BS or TS.

When buying S2S lumber it's the tool to clean up an edge with no muss or fuss to prep for cutting. I can't imagine hot melting a fence to do this on a TS if you have a jointer at hand?

I also used it a lot when I used to rip everything with a cheap 8 tooth carbide blade. That blade always cut like butter but left a rough edge. One pass through the jointer and all was well. Interesting thing was I could still edge glue right off that blade and still get a near perfect joint.

Also like to use it when sneaking up on a width for something. I know it always cuts a tad under 1/16th of an inch, so I use that to my advantage when needed.