There are some, who rather than answer the question posed, prefer to further their own agenda.
Glad you got it to work, and you can use a hand plane to get the high spots knocked down before running either face or edge on the jointer. I demo the full board making process with hand planes periodically, but wouldn't do it for a project.
One more I did not see mentioned, which has worked for me: get a straightedge, or make one similar to a circular saw guide only sized for your router, clamp it to your stock, then use a pattern bit to clean up your edge. Easier to set up than a jig to route both boards at once. I use this for the occaisional situation, but if I jointed panels on a regular basis, I'd look into something I believe is made by Jointech, or some such, that works on the same principle.
What you say is true enough...but not relevant. THe complementary angle is across the thickness of the board. You are talking about waviness along the LENGTH of the board. The whole point of planing is to remove waviness along the length. Not having to worry about keeping the edge plane at exactly 90 degress to the face of the board is just gravy, and makes the process less painful. Of course, it is best to get practiced enough, or jig the plane, so it IS a good, 90 degree angle. Makes things much simpler. Regards Dave Mundt
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