I'm building a built-in bookcase in my 1940s house. I'd like to use an inexpensive hardwood that is easy to work with but that will hold up well over time. To match the decor, I'll (unfortunately) be painting the bookcase so many of my usual considerations about color, grain, etc. aren't relevant here. What wood do people suggest using in this case? Thanks for any advice.
Poplar.
poplar. poplar. poplar.
:)
dave
He said he wanted to use a "hardwood"...isn't poplar a softwood?
Technically a Hard Wood. A soft hard wood.
thanks for jumping in, Leon! :) it's soft enough that the for the rails of my second and third Delta mobile bases, I used maple. The first one, made from poplar, was a little less rigid than I'd hoped for, but due to the light duty I put it to, it's irrelevant.
dave
On Sun, 4 Jul 2004 20:34:13 -0400, "Murf" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
I will put this gently. You are new here? This was a troll, for no apparent reason, by people who should know better the replies are simply sycophantic extensions of the original "joke".
Kind of depends on where you are. East, Midwest = poplar. West coast = Alder. I love Alder.
If you're going to paint it, what about plywood with edge banding?
djb
now THAT'S the first time I've been called sycophantic! I tend to use that term often, without being a participant in such behavior.
dave
To reiterate:
The answer for painted projects is poplar. It is very easy to work, is stable, and takes paint well.
The Mona Lisa was painted on poplar.
Paul.
Scarfinger wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
But that's Lombardy Poplar. And the cite you gave says it's deteriorating pretty fast.
|Kind of depends on where you are. East, Midwest = poplar. West coast = |Alder. I love Alder.
I'm using some Alder right now. I'm not sure I'm in love yet and even in AZ poplar is cheaper. Unpainted, it looks way nicer than poplar (what doesn't) but it sure doesn't like dull tools.
Wes
And thus, the problem between "tulip" and real poplar again. Real poplar would work as well, but it is going to be fuzzier requiring one more sand-down.
Depending on location, different woods will be available. I'd use bass or aspen (Poplar) both of which barely return the cost of sawing up here, and both of which work and take paint well, though aspen can do some moving if you're ripping boards.
Agreed, with an additional comment.
Make any parts that are subject to lots of handling or abuse like doors, face frames that have doors attached, drawer fronts, kick plates, etc with maple. Maple will have a more solid feel and resist dings and other damage better than soft poplar.
Since you're painting it, you can mix the woods at will.
Barry
It depends on your local market for hardwoods.
I cn get "brown maple" which is maple with less desirable brown heartwood streaks in it for something just about the same price as poplar ($1.60/bf from my supplier)
Having recently completed a couple painted pieces in poplar, I would not do it again. For the same price, I would rather have have the hardness of maple.
See what your local supplier has. Prices are very regional.
-Steve
Poplar
First choice: poplar. Then the next least inexpensive hardwood would probably be hickory. I can get hickory for $3/bf locally.
Brian.
Hello, Soft or silver maple is what I would suggest for durability and paintablity. It's also inexpensive. $1.80 per bf (nice wide boards) plus shipping (normally about a buck a ft.) from us if you can't get it locally.
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