"RogerT" wrote in message
I am re-doing a second floor apartment that a tenant
just moved out of.
Unfortunately, the previous tenant had cats and there are cat urine stains
everywhere on the existing old hardwood floors. There were rugs on top of
the old hardwood floors, but the urine stains went through the rugs to the
hardwood floors. So, barring some miracle way of getting rid of lots of cat
urine stains and smell, it looks like I am going to have to rip up the
existing old hardwood floors to get rid of the smell.
If I go that route, I want to put new 3/4-inch hardwood down -- not Pergo,
laminate, vinyl, etc.
My questions are related to what type of hardwood to get.
I was thinking of maybe putting down pre-finished 3/4-inch hardwood -- such
as Bruce prefinished hardwood. But, my concern about that is that the
prefinished "colors" are apparently a stain and finish -- so if the floor
gets scratched or damaged in the future (hopefully not by cat urine), I
would need to sand out the damaged area and then have to figure out how to
match the stain so the color would match. Instead, I was wondering if there
is some particular type of finished or unfinished hardwood floor that would
look good with just a clear polyurethane finish. That way, to repair any
damage, I could sand it out and apply a clear finish again and hopefully
that would match the original finish.
If I go with that approach, is there any particular type of hardwood
flooring that I should consider getting -- oak, maple, something else? --
either finished or unfinished?
Forget the new hardwood. If the hardwood is fastened firmly yet get a pro
and sand the wood down, stain and urethane with about 3-4 coats.
I had an old floor that had been water damaged by the open windows and the
previous owner was insane and used a million pieces of carpet from 9x12'
down to 1 inch square and stapled every one down to the oak flooring. He
duplicated this underneath with matching pieces of underlay. What a mess.
The cracks seemed to be black and open up to 1/4" in the water damaged
I had a guy come in and redo the whole thing for around $200 about 20 years
back and I wouldn't trade the quality of my prefinished Tigerwood hardwood
floor for it. The thing looked flawless when it was done and every crack was
sealed up without a trace of water damage. I wouldn't attempt a sanding job
like this on my own. This guy knew how to use the various screens and
control that machine flawlessly. For a dark oak stain to not show a scratch
Now the whole thing squeeked and popped before this job but some PL-400
forced up between the plywood and the joists from underneath with the wife
rocking her weight back and forth on the floor above to work the adhesive
into the joints made this floor a rock solid work of art when it was done.
Usually there is a reason to use 3/4" oak in the first place. It can be
refinished a few times.