Duron MAX Deck and Siding stain???

Have a 25 year old dark-stained cedar, house addition which is need of some sprucing up as the original factory installed stain on the T-111 has weathered badly and unevenly (due varying weather/sun exposure). Paint contractor proposes low pressure wash, followed by bleaching, wait a few days and then stain with Duron MaxWood semi transparent Deck and Siding stain. Heard of Duron, never of MaxWood. Have googled, found info, but not found any opinions/experience. Any experience/opinions out there. BTW he wants to also wash the adjacent 720' weather gray deck and put on linseed oil. Am dubious about linseed oil. All the deck sealers I have tried don't last long here close to the coast. May just wash and leave it. My current thoughts are let him wash deck and room, and bleach the room, and go away. Then I will try semi-transparent stain in a couple of locations on room, and if they don't come out equal, will use a solid stain over the entire room. Am in my 70s, but it's a one-story room and figure I can do the staining. Will pcik from one of the favorites, I.e. Seikens, Behr, Olympic, after further review of the many posts about this. Any thoughts??? Never too old to learn

Reply to
Roy Starrin
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Northing lasts a long time, but to put nothing sees rather silly also. What is the deck made from? That would guide me to a choice of coatings, Penofin Oil being first choice for most decks. Easy to apply and will last at least a year or two.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

In my experience your better off with a permeating oil that you can re- apply every few years. Stain isn't like this - you need to strip off the old (whatever hasn't come off already) before you re-apply.

Stains last longer if they are not transparent at all. I've had a bit of history with Behr stain and advise you to RUN not walk away from that brand.

I've used linseed oil on my balcony boxes & if this is any indication I'd count to re-applying ever other year. Looks VERY nice though.

Standard disclaimer - linseed oil soaked rags really do burst into flame so be careful.

Reply to
Paul

I did my house with Duron MaxWood latex stain. I don't remember the words Deck and Siding, but they may be on the can. I can go downstairs and check if you want me too. I think it says semi-transparent, and I can check that too if you want.

On t1-11 (sp?)

I was very satisified.

My color varies from year to year as they rename colors or discontinue colors and come up with ones almost the same. I take the store's recommendation of what the current color is, and they are always close. 3 colors total i think, I have either the cans or labels from all the colors, but they are roughtly Walnut? Brown, Russet Brown, and Mahogany (which didn't have the red that some mahogany has)

My house is 28 years old and when I bought it 24 years ago, Duron paints were the only ones permitted by the HOA. All the houses here,

109, were in one of two colors, and the other color, Sunrise Gold it might have been, was hard to match, especially for the people who were never told about Duron. Our HOA didn't do a good job on that afaic. (This is probably the reason newer n'hoods have different colors for every house. So one negligent, ignorant, or recalcitrant owner can't mess up the whole row.)

But the brown houses, 80% of them, got the same color, and still look good.

You mention cedar but you don't say what color you are going for. Cedar? ?? Bleaching it is used when one is changing to a lighter color, isn't it?

I didn't do anything to prepare the wood -- I didn't wash it** and I certainly diddn't bleach it -- and I don't think I suffered for it. I was using the exact same color for a couple walls, and I couldn't even see the borderline between old and new coverage, except that coverage was complete. I haven't seen any peeling, which I think must have something to do with it being a stain and not a paint, but I really don't understand the whole thing. There is a lot of pigment in those cans.

**If there had been bird doodoo on it, I guess I would have spot washed that off. I did use a brush, probably a good brass brush meant for clothes (that I never really used for clothes, though I easily cleaned afterwards), to removed the drippings from 3 or 4 carpenter bees I had had in the fascia?, but I did that when I patched those holes, not just before painting.

(I also painted the electric meter box, which had been grey, with the Duron stain, and although it was hard to get rid of brush strokes, it looks darn good in that it matches the house, and gets rid of the grey which didn't match anything but other electric boxes) And I painted my AC condenser with some dark brown auto spray paint from a car I didn't have anymore/

You keep saying room. Are we talking about the inside or the outside of the house?

Reply to
mm

Standard old 5/4 6" pressure treated pine

Reply to
Roy Starrin

See below

Currently semi transparent colors of interest to me are Manor Brown MWDST20, Mahogany MWDST4 or Oxford Brown MWDST5 (They also have the Solid colors, MWDS in the same numbers) I would be interested in determining if you are using a solid color or transparent, especially because of your statements about washing, bleaching, coverage, etc. I guess we could figure it out from a couple of your numbers. Also, how often are your restaining?

Beats me. Color left on the room runs from none to a deep brown, with some dirt and some light mold. It is the deeper brown I am looking for

To us, it's a room, bevause it was a family room addition. But I am talking about the outside

Thanks for your input

Reply to
Roy Starrin

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you yet. My basement is sort of closed off so the visiting dog won't go down there, and I keep forgetting. Are you about to start painting or do I have a few days?

P&M

Reply to
mm

It's a summer project; take all of the time you want. I fully understand the "visiting dog" aspect; We just got rid of my son's alpha dog who was at it full time with my alpha dog. Besides, with the crazy weather, we may wind up with snow yet - and I live in the tidewater of VA. Thanks for the help - in advance

Reply to
Roy Starrin

OK, it took me 4 trips to the basement to remember I was supposed to do this, and on the 4th trip, I only remembered at the top of the stairs. Took one more trip to remember at the bottom of the stairs.

Solid I guess. I used, as described, Dron MaxWood siding and trim stain, Mahogany exterior solid color 100% acrylic formula, 28-311 11.

I haven't looked at even older cans, but I'm pretty sure they were the same, although not called Maxwood, which didn't exist then.

Do you know what the difference is between transparent and solid? Solid is a lot like paint, but there is no grain in t111, so I'm not sure what real stain would do to it.

In anoher thread, someone called t111 plywood. IIRC, it's a good product, but it has no plies and it's not really wood, any more than Steak'ums are really meat. Am I wrong? I'm no pro and don't even remember things all that well, and I coudl well be wrong.

My numbers are nothing like yours. I bought the paint several years ago, when I did the house.

I'm embarrassed to say this but I guess the first time, the house was almost 18 years old. Two pieces of T111 were so bad they cracked and I had to replace them. The chain that sold the style I had had gone out of business, and Home Depot sold thicker material but with greater distance between the stripes. Fortunately, Lowes opened a year or so before I did this and I could get the matching t111 there. Because I don't have enough ladders, I was lucky that I was doing my roof soon after painting the house, and the roofer agreed to put the two pieces on for ?? 100 dollars, but ended up charging me nothing, I guess because I wasn't a pain in the butt while he was working. And because I got him the town house next door too, although I got a couple hundreed dollars off the total price for his doing two at the same time.

And some of the panelling that I didnt' replace is such that the painting only got the first layer, and left unpainted stuff that was further back. I'm not talking about plies, which they are not. Just separation. I'm only 60 but I have symptoms and have to see the doctor. If I have more than 15 more years to live, I'll have to do something about the siding. Otherwise, I guess I won't. OTOH, I'll have plenty of money I think if I don't too much time to live, so I'll just have it fixed right.

BTW, you mentioned cedar color at the start, and my n'hood is called the Cedars, for no apparent reason. There are no cedars growing around here afaict, and none of the decor is done in cedar.

Reply to
mm

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