I actually do quite a bit of RTA furniture assembly for people in my area.
FWIW, I'm very pleased when I find out it will be an IKEA product I'm
going to assemble because their quality is significantly higher than
other RTA furniture.
Most of the time, the "important" parts of the furniture are actually
solid wood instead of termite vomit. And I'm assured that none of their
hardware is going to snap in half under the weight of my screwdriver.
Sauder, Wayfair, any of the other brands out there are complete shite,
for the most part. I have to go in bringing extra hardware (HD/Lowes
started carrying RTA parts) and have to avoid making sudden movements or
loud noises, lest I spook the pieces and they fall apart under their own
But I can always count on IKEA for their (relative!) high quality when
it comes to RTA furniture. Believe it or not, IKEA actually makes some
high end stuff for their European markets. From what I hear, they
started doing the boxed kits just for shipping to overseas markets.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
On Friday, January 13, 2017 at 12:15:47 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
You would love putting together some of the RTA pieces that I have in my
house. This 9' x 6' x 3' armoire is RTA:
This is one on the connectors that holds the top on (right hand image). You
use any type of round pointed object to turn a barrel nut to draw the
The unit knocks down to 10(?) pieces not including the shelves. The biggest
single pieces are the top and the base. Roughly 9 x 3 x 6". The rest are all
about the size of one of the doors.
I have a 6' wide glass front book case, a dining room hutch, a curved glass
china cabinet and a few other pieces from the same manufacturer. They were
made by a German firm (whose name escapes me right now) back in the early
I have one downstairs that my mother (a great
aficionado of cheap) bought me. It still holds
up books but it had a lot of plastic trim that
fell off very early and no hinge on it still
functions. I have a few others that are of a
similar nature but a step upmarket that are
holding up fine. One of these days they all get
replaced with built-ins. Of course I've been
saying that for decades and so far nobody has
provided me the necessary round tuit.
On Friday, January 13, 2017 at 8:21:50 PM UTC-8, email@example.com wrote:
[about fragile flakeboard product]
It helps if you put a little white glue in each hole, and (after it dries) apply
a hot iron to flatten the board.
The real key, is to use three screws where you'd use one for solid wood.
Between screws and paint, flakeboard is a high-overhead way to save cash.
When our daughter was a small child we bought several items from Ikea.
There were no heirlooms, to be sure, but most of them had a pleasing
"clean lines" style and did the job. Her "high-bed" was an unqualified
success, actually; sturdy enough, with lots of room underneath for
storage and play and inexpensive enough to make sense for the few years
she would use it. The cubbyhole bookcases we bought were chipboard, of
course, but the "beech" veneer had a nice color to it the cubbies held
an awful lot of stuff that needed holding.
A couple of years later, we decided to buy a dressers for our daughter's
room. In the interim, the quality had deteriorated noticeably. For one
thing, the two units must have been from different batches; the stain
didn't match. In the previous incarnation of Ikea, they'd have shipped a
replacement. No longer. The chipboard also had bigger, coarser chips,
and any non-visible surface was left bare. Although I was pretty
experienced at putting flat-pack furniture together, the pieces didn't
fit as well as the earlier stuff.
I think that's a shame, because their earlier, better stuff fulfilled a
need: decent-looking functional furniture at an attractive price. We're
a little more flush these days, have most of the furniture we need, and
I intend to fill in here and there with pieces I build myself. But
plenty of other people could use an affordable alternative.
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On Wednesday, January 11, 2017 at 12:06:35 PM UTC-8, Spalted Walt wrote:
OK, it's a variation on a pocket keyhole that engages a wooden head. The head
is tripled, and cut curvy so after it bottoms, it'l at least start to slide into the
narrow part where it'll hold.
I'd be tempted to brush a little linseed oil into the receiving slot before assembly.
There's some interesting puzzle-box possibilities, after joining a panel you could
slide a second panel into position that blocks the first from loosening.
I could produce such a router bit with a few minutes of grinding, on a straight bit,
and make the dowels by working the router bit against a blank in a lathe.
You could use it, for instance, to mount a skirt to a tabletop.
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