I am putting a router table in as my TS left wing. I don't want to make it
any heavier than necessary, but I do want to collect the dust. I can put a
2.5" port on the fence (well, I can do it once I figure out how to make the
fence; any suggestions on how to make one that attaches to the TS fence?)
but much of the dust goes down. The router, a Bosch 1617 has a 1" plastic
dust port that goes on the back. I tried it today and it is not too bad,
but not so great either. If I hook my DC up to the 1" port below the table
and the 2.5" port on the fence will that be adequate, or do I have to build
an enclosure for the router and put a 4" port on it (rather than using the
I am sure many of you have TS router tables, some even with the 1617; how do
you do it? Thanks.
Interestingly, I first hooked my 15a vacuum up to the 1" port, but found the
DC did a better job. I expected the vacuum to win that one.
I split the 4" hose into two 2 1/2" connectors for my hoses. One is on the
top for fence pick-up the other is at the bottom of the router box. Works
well, what one doesn't get the other does... usually. If you can connect one
to the bottom of the box enclosure you build for the router it will get most
because if all falls down naturally.
Yeh, I think I am going to have to. I just found out the 1" port goes on
the same side as the height adjustment; so that won't work out at all.
Probably just as well.
Seems odd to sell an $85 box to woodworkers who ought to be able to make it
out of scraps.
I would like to get some light in there so I can see what I am doing. Would
plexiglass sides, set in a frame, hold up to the suction?
My solution was quick and dirty. I literally have a router box, which
is to say I took an appropriately sized cardboard box, reinforced an
area with duct tape to accept the dust port (2.5"), and duct taped the
ugly thing under the wing. I then cut a "door" in the side for access
to the router and made a small hole for the power cord. A $15 router
switch from Rockler completes the picture.
Red Green would be proud, but this works extremely well. I also have
the split hose arrangement for the fence.
My table extension is almost as low-brow. Cutting the T-Slots and miter
slot in the table surface were the first time I'd ever used a router,
so I wanted to gain some experience before designing and building a
more permanent (and more elegant) setup. Every time I use it I refine
the design of the "future" table.
I built a box around mine.
Left the front open where I put a piece of plexiglas that slides down to
give total frontal access to the router.
I cut a hole on one side just big enough for the plug on the cord then
pluged the hole with a large tapered dowel with a slit for the cord.
I cut a hole for my shop vac in the side and installed a switch with two
outlets ( one for the router one for the shop vac)
I cut two holes in the router plate similar to that used on the tv show "The
Router Workshop" (see link:
You don't need the collection plate just cut the holes in your router plate.
Everything is sucked in from every hole in the router plate.
I am very happy with my setup. It cut down the router dust by 75%
Thanks for the interesting idea. It would sure be easier than running a
hose to the fence.
Perhaps I could just make the table opening an oval, extending back into the
opening in the fence; that would give better airflow and draw the air back
towards the fence.
Has anyone tried that? The more I think about it, the more I like it.
The link I sent you has the hole in front of the router bit, but also one to
the right of the bit (about 4.5" - center of the bit to center of the hole)
With a hole 2/3 of the way thourgh the fence ( cut from bottom up" you use a
'U' shaped removable cup to channel the dust from the hole in the fence to
the hole in the plate.
In the picture on the site the cup is white. I made mine out of MDF.
As far as the fence goes, if you can get your hands on a Nov 2004 "Wood"
they have plans for a fence that has three mounting options, one of which is
to a T/S fence. They simply put a short vertical on the back edge of the
router fence assembly and clamp it to the T/S fence. I was recently talking
to someone who built a 'saddle box' to sit over top of the rip fence. He
then bored two holes in the saddle on the side opposite the router fence and
uses two De-Sta-Co clamps to hold it tight to the rip fence. I think that
when I build the fence from Wood magazine I will modify it to use the saddle
box and the De-Sta-Co's.
I just built a plywood box, connected a 4" DC port to one side, drilled a
hole the plug would fit through. I sealed the plug hole by attaching some
rubber gasket material cut to fit snugly around the cord. I do not find I
need light in there. I lift the plate out of the table to change bits or
adjust height. My fence has a port built into it but I only use the fence
about 1/2 the time anyway so I do not want to rely on that. My fence was
pretty inexpensive IIRC.
^^ ^^ ^^
This is the plate and fence I use.
The plate is a bit of a pain to get out of the table w/o sticking a
screwdriver into one of the unused mounting holes. Its impossible to get out
of the table with the DC is on due to the suction!
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