How to handle dust collection on a TS wing router table?

[Toller]

I am putting a router table in as my TS left wing. I don't want to make it any heavier than necessary, but I do want to collect the dust. I can put a

2.5" port on the fence (well, I can do it once I figure out how to make the fence; any suggestions on how to make one that attaches to the TS fence?) but much of the dust goes down. The router, a Bosch 1617 has a 1" plastic dust port that goes on the back. I tried it today and it is not too bad, but not so great either. If I hook my DC up to the 1" port below the table and the 2.5" port on the fence will that be adequate, or do I have to build an enclosure for the router and put a 4" port on it (rather than using the 1" port)?

I am sure many of you have TS router tables, some even with the 1617; how do you do it? Thanks.

Interestingly, I first hooked my 15a vacuum up to the 1" port, but found the DC did a better job. I expected the vacuum to win that one.

[tdup2]

I split the 4" hose into two 2 1/2" connectors for my hoses. One is on the top for fence pick-up the other is at the bottom of the router box. Works well, what one doesn't get the other does... usually. If you can connect one to the bottom of the box enclosure you build for the router it will get most because if all falls down naturally.

Tim

[bluemax1811-newsgroups]

Build or buy a dust collection cabinet. A commercial version is available from woodpeck.com. Here's a link

[Toller]

the same side as the height adjustment; so that won't work out at all. Probably just as well.

Seems odd to sell an $85 box to woodworkers who ought to be able to make it out of scraps. I would like to get some light in there so I can see what I am doing. Would plexiglass sides, set in a frame, hold up to the suction?

[Tom H]

I built a box around mine. Left the front open where I put a piece of plexiglas that slides down to give total frontal access to the router. I cut a hole on one side just big enough for the plug on the cord then pluged the hole with a large tapered dowel with a slit for the cord. I cut a hole for my shop vac in the side and installed a switch with two outlets ( one for the router one for the shop vac) I cut two holes in the router plate similar to that used on the tv show "The Router Workshop" (see link:

) You don't need the collection plate just cut the holes in your router plate. Everything is sucked in from every hole in the router plate. I am very happy with my setup. It cut down the router dust by 75%

[Toller]

Thanks for the interesting idea. It would sure be easier than running a hose to the fence. Perhaps I could just make the table opening an oval, extending back into the opening in the fence; that would give better airflow and draw the air back towards the fence. Has anyone tried that? The more I think about it, the more I like it.

[Tom H]

The link I sent you has the hole in front of the router bit, but also one to the right of the bit (about 4.5" - center of the bit to center of the hole) With a hole 2/3 of the way thourgh the fence ( cut from bottom up" you use a 'U' shaped removable cup to channel the dust from the hole in the fence to the hole in the plate. In the picture on the site the cup is white. I made mine out of MDF.

[Highland Pairos]

As far as the fence goes, if you can get your hands on a Nov 2004 "Wood" they have plans for a fence that has three mounting options, one of which is to a T/S fence. They simply put a short vertical on the back edge of the router fence assembly and clamp it to the T/S fence. I was recently talking to someone who built a 'saddle box' to sit over top of the rip fence. He then bored two holes in the saddle on the side opposite the router fence and uses two De-Sta-Co clamps to hold it tight to the rip fence. I think that when I build the fence from Wood magazine I will modify it to use the saddle box and the De-Sta-Co's.

SteveP.

[No]

I just built a plywood box, connected a 4" DC port to one side, drilled a hole the plug would fit through. I sealed the plug hole by attaching some rubber gasket material cut to fit snugly around the cord. I do not find I need light in there. I lift the plate out of the table to change bits or adjust height. My fence has a port built into it but I only use the fence about 1/2 the time anyway so I do not want to rely on that. My fence was pretty inexpensive IIRC.

^^ ^^ ^^ This is the plate and fence I use.

The plate is a bit of a pain to get out of the table w/o sticking a screwdriver into one of the unused mounting holes. Its impossible to get out of the table with the DC is on due to the suction!

[tom_murphy]

My solution was quick and dirty. I literally have a router box, which is to say I took an appropriately sized cardboard box, reinforced an area with duct tape to accept the dust port (2.5"), and duct taped the ugly thing under the wing. I then cut a "door" in the side for access to the router and made a small hole for the power cord. A $15 router switch from Rockler completes the picture.

Red Green would be proud, but this works extremely well. I also have the split hose arrangement for the fence.

My table extension is almost as low-brow. Cutting the T-Slots and miter slot in the table surface were the first time I'd ever used a router, so I wanted to gain some experience before designing and building a more permanent (and more elegant) setup. Every time I use it I refine the design of the "future" table.

Tom

[Toller]

Well, that's encouraging. I thought it had to be pretty solid to survive the suction, but if a cardboard box works...

[Tom H]

[Toller]

Thanks all.

[CW]

Been watching the Router Workshop haven't you?

[Tom H]

You caught me. System works great. Had to put a threaded insert in place of the forward clamp Hope I'm not in copyright violation.