How to cut rabbets on the router table?

[Greg Guarino]

I need to make rabbets about 1/16" deep by about 3/8" wide in a bunch of pieces of 1x3, likely poplar (to be decided by others). It's for a stage set and need only pass the "30 foot" test, meaning, it will look OK to the nearest audience member.

The 1x3s will be either 16" or 50" long. I have a 1/2" x 3/8" rabbeting bit. So which of these is the better way to do it, with the 1x3 laying on the table:

or "standing up" against the fence:

Thanks in advance.

Greg Guarino

[Greg Guarino]

I need to make rabbets about 1/16" deep by about 3/8" wide in a bunch of pieces of 1x3, likely poplar (to be decided by others). It's for a stage set and need only pass the "30 foot" test, meaning, it will look OK to the nearest audience member.

The 1x3s will be either 16" or 50" long. I have a 1/2" x 3/8" rabbeting bit. So which of these is the better way to do it, with the 1x3 laying on the table:

or "standing up" against the fence:

Thanks in advance.

Greg Guarino

[Markem618]

I would feel safer with the 1x3 flat as in your first pic, would use finger boards pushing down and one pushing the board towards the fence.

[Jim]

I second that.

[krw]

I'd just use a straight bit and fence. You can cut the rabbit in either orientation, whatever's easier.

A rabbiting bit is overkill. If you use the fence, too, you may have troubles.

[Jay Pique]

I'd do it standing up with a bearing guided bit set a 64th proud of your router table fence. If you do it flat and the boards are cupped a bit they could drop a bit as you near the end of the cut. I wouldn't personally use featherboards to me they just create more fuss and waste time for this operation.

-JP

[Leon]

Either way works. But if the piece is with the wide side laying on the table top, like the first pic, it will not tip. You should not need feather boards.

[Keith Nuttle]

I use feather boards whether I cut the rabbet with the board vertically of horizontally. I thing the deciding factor is you intended use and the size of the rabbet itself/

I do a lot of repetitive routes. Once I get the router set up, it helps with the precision to use feather boards.

While precision is not as critical with a rabbet, for decorative routing is quite necessary. Especially if you are making something like a picture frame and you want the routes to line up in the corners

[Leon]

The rabbit is 1/16" deep and 3/8" wide. There is going to be little to no resistance.

I'm not saying to not use feather boards ever, I was just responding to the OP and the specifics he stated.

If there is a chance that the work could tilt or if it is warped, or when cutting a grove in the center of a face, yes feather boards are helpful. But cutting into the wide surface of a 1x3 with the wide side down there is not much that can damage the cut. The only possibility is that the work moves away from the fence/bit and you have to run it through again.

I agree. But again, a 1/16" deep by 3/8" wide rabbit in, possibly poplar, not necessary.