About twice as often as ypou probably do already.
Top quality sandpaper, replaced when necessary, is a very cost-
effective expense when sanding. Costs a bit more, works a great deal
On some sanders (esp. belt sanders) you can clean the sandpaper with a
rubber stick, rather than needing to rerplace it. This is less
necessary on ROs though.
Really just hitching onto Andy's posting, I wonder what actually happens
when a coated abrasive paper apparently wears?
Some grits get detached.
The spaces between grits are filled with dust, thereby preventing the grits
What is puzzling me is that I was taught that when grinding metals,
abrasives work because the grits fracture in use, thereby presenting new
sharp edges to the material. If they don't fracture the wheel doesn't cut
and the job overheats.
Now wood generally seems relatively soft stuff - is it usually hard enough
to fracture the abrasive grains? Perhaps mostly not, hence is most wear due
to the two points above?
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
This thread reminds me of a conversation/disagreement that my Dad and I
always have. He 'downgrades' sandpaper as it gets more use. 120 becomes
180, 180 becomes 220, etc.... My point is that you shouldn't do that,
especially when final sanding (addressed elsewhere in this thread) because
dull big rocks don't cut/sand the same as sharp small rocks. I *always* use
a fresh sheet (disk) when final sanding, and change it often (about 10
minutes of use). My thought on lower grits is if you're spending a *lot* of
time final sanding, you're probably not changing the paper on the lower
grits often enough.
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