For a project I am working on I need to use a dovetail bit to take the
edge off of both sides of a thin piece of wood (1/4"). The end result
needs to be a trapezoid cross section. The piece will slide inside a
dovetailed groove in another piece of wood.
The problem I had was since I was taking the whole edge off the piece
wanted to slide under the fence since the pointed side is down when
using the bit in a table. The trailing end also got a little mangled
but I expected that and made the piece longer than needed. I suppose I
could have ripped the angle on the TS but the piece is only 3/4" wide
so not the safest idea.
The results I got were good enough for the purpose I have in mind but
not if the piece was to be visible. Best idea I can come up with for
the next time I need to do this is to put a piece of hardboard down on
the router table to effectively raise the table higher that the fence
so the piece can't get under the fence. Anyone have a better idea?
I think some sort of jig might be appropriate for use on the table saw. I
can't visualize the piece your making. How long is the piece your working
I would probably make the bevel with a block plane and fit it to the groove.
If you look at this sliding dovetail link the piece I needed to make
was just the part that slides in the groove. The finished piece is
about 15" long.
After looking at the picture I suppose the next time I need to do this
I would make the cuts on the end of a board and then rip the 'slide'
loose from the main board. But this wouldn't help if I needed a slide
1" wide and only had 3/4" stock.
Thought about the plane but I am still learning plane skills and needed
the piece to be maple so I doubt I could have done that.
If all you want is the "part that slides in the groove" ... do what I said
in my previous post using wider stock the same thickness as the depth of the
Providing you have a TS with a tilting blade, there is probably no safer,
easier, quicker way to do it.
If I understand you correctly, and I'm not sure at all that I do ...
You can use the table saw safely if you cut the needed piece off a wider
Make the first cut on the edge of the stock with the blade angled
appropriately, move the fence over the appropriate distance, flip the
workpiece over and make the second cut ... in this case the offcut would be
Kindly ignore if this is not what you are trying to accomplish.
This could work... but I have a right tilt saw so If I'm thinking this
blade angled to match groove
fence to left of blade
make first cut
ROTATE piece 180
make second cut with fence ~3/4" from blade
I would feel safe doing this because I use a pushstick similar to this
Flip the piece end to end, longways ... it will be apparent when you get
ready to do the second cut. ;)
That will work. with the appropriate pushstick.
However, it would be safer (since you seem worried about safety, and rightly
so!) to make the second cut 3/4" from the JUST CUT edge of the _wide_ stock
... remember your are trying to this safely, so you want as much wood
between the fence and the cut as you are comfortable with.
Then flip the wide board again for the third cut, setting the blade the
appropriate distance from the last cut edge, to cut the second piece.
Repeat the flip, resetting the fence for each cut, until you have all your
pieces cut off the same _wide_ board.
Each time you do this the blade will get closer to the fence, so the wider
the stock you start with, the more pieces you can cut in your comfort zone.
CAVEAT: You really need to measure the distance from the fence to the blade
carefully because angled cuts in this manner can fool you due having
"pointy" side down on the second cut on a right tilt.
That's really the only caveat.
I don't know about you, but using the fence on the left side usually
gives me poor results. Might be different for a left-handed fella.
I'd take a piece maybe 4-5" wide, leave the fence on the right side,
and make the first cut, then flip the piece end over end, adjust the
fence so that the offcut was the right size for the piece I needed,
and cut again. The wider stock will compensate for the right-tilt,
and give you some room to get your pushstick in there.
I think this was what Swingman was describing, also. If you do it
your way, there's a chance that the workpiece will ride up the fence
if you apply too much lateral pressure. Doesn't mean it *will*
happen, but if you're like most folks, cutting on the left side is
different that your usual procedure, and that's starting to stack up
too many variables for me.
No way I'm cutting a bevel with the fence on the right side of the
blade on a piece that narrow/thin. I think that is just begging for a
kickback with a right-tilt.
If I ever do upgrade my TS I will most likely get a left-tilt because
Make your first cut, then temporarily stick a line of scotch tape (or some
other easily removable but slick-surfaced tape) along the intersection where
your fence meets the table to keep the pointy part from sliding under. I
just saw Norm use this trick this weekend.
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
If you have a planer, you could do what I did in a similar situation: start
with thicker stock. Raise the bit high enough that it doesn't cut the entire
edge, mill both edges, and then plane to final thickness.
First mill this with the router:
Then plane til you have this:
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
[for making a dovetail slide]
and, of course, the final cut is hard to make because the opposite
to the final cut is already beveled and doesn't ride against the fence
My solution (there are several) would be to screw the strip to a
and cut it, then flip it end for end and screw it down again and cut
edge. You could even get fancy and make a clamp with two long jaws, a
few captive bolts and wing nuts, glue a spacer on one side of the line
captive bolts and clamp the workpiece on the other.
In either case, a fence in either a router table (preferred, since you
the bit that you'll make the dovetail socket with), or a table saw
(icky mainly because
of the difficulty of adustment/readjustment for the special cut) will
the suitable jig surface.
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