Harbor Freight Bandsaw Blades.

My personal rule of thumb for blades at HF: If it's carbide and on sale, buy it, if it's a bandsaw or jig saw blade, run the other way.. I use their 10" carbide blades on the chop saw and like them, but the BS blades that I got there when I was really desperate were sharp for about 30 seconds and then wouldn't cut or track..

As Leon said, BS blades are not expensive... I have mine made up at a local saw shop and pay $12 to $14 for 105" blades that work very well.. YMWV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

metal cutting feeds and speeds are more dependent on the material (alum vs steel) than the application. Also, metal cutting typically uses a wax type lubricant.

nb

I get it. There are similar threads over in the drumming newsgroup, so I totally understand.

I must be hallucinating. Did you just say countersteer?

Counter what, now?

You might wanna check here for cheap Olson bandsaw blades:

Why pay $10-$20 for the craps when you can buy for the same for Oslson Pro? I had tried Timberwolf including Viking from Lee Valley, I still think you cannot go wrong with Olson Pro.

Escuse me, my mistake. I didn't read carefully and jump the gun. We all contribute our two cents and someone must have gain something from it. :-)

Finally a post from someone who has tried the HF blades. Kudos.

Thank you.

Very interesting and informative thread. For you hardcore woodworkers, a band saw welder might be an valid option. Buy saw stock, weld your own to need. In metal work, a welder is a necessity. Here's a couple options.

...learned how to do that in "college*."

We had to take a bent or broken blade, cut new ends, file, weld, file, install, run and cut with the side guides tight to make sure there was no speed bump at the joint. There was also some sort of tension tester that pulled on the blade at the joint.

I missed that part, did Mac actually mention that he bought the cheap $10 blades that the OP was asking about?

You quoted it.

LOL, That I did, didn't I . SNAKE!!

I looked into that a few years ago, but how much would it actually save per blade, and how much would the equipment cost? Then, there's the learning curve.. Plus the question of where do I use it? I wouldn't want something like that IN the shop.. I even have my grinders outside..

Bottom line for me is that for as little money as good blades cost, I'd prefer to spend my time turning wood and let the saw shop make a few bucks a blade..

Sort of like some of the turning tools that I've chosen to buy instead of make.. I'm not willing to learn blacksmithing and such to avoid buying a $100 tool..

mac

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It was from total desperation, Leon... Broke my last blade, thinking that there were more in the cabinet, of course, and the saw shop was closed..

As I remember, the blades at least LOOKED like they were made of steel..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I much rather spend money on a quality product/tool,that will last years. what point is there in buying a 99 cent screwdriver and next week having to go buy another and another? not to mention the time, gas, aggravation as well. I've still got a pr. of sidecutters I bought 30+years ago. I did pay more than 25 dollars for them, but,I can grab them right now and cut either small wires or a 16penny nail. I suppose it is all in what one a)wants and b) what we can afford at the time. thanks & god bless

Depends on the tool and the need. I needed to drill some holes in a concrete slab a while back. Probably never going to need to do that again. Priced renting a "good" SDS hammer or buying a "cheap" one from HF. The HF was less than the rent on the "good" one, so bought the HF, it did the job just fine, and it's there to use again.