I just purchased an Oneida 2HP cyclone. The estimated total weight is
about 200 lbs.
I have two options given the proposed installation :
I have two options available to me. I can hang the cyclone on the
wall or I can build an enclosure. I have concrete block. My thoughts
were to install a 2X8 PT. Mount it on the wall with construction
adhesive and secure using concrete screws. I would the mount the
cyclone hanger to the 2x8 PT. I was also thinking of placing some
ceiling tile above the DC to prevent upward propogation of the sound
to the floor above since I am in the basement.
I have just enough vertical clearance for the cyclone to consider an
enclosure. I also have a lot of scrap 2x6 lumber. I was thinking of
building a box that would "fit around the cyclone on three side and
then screw in the from panel. That panel would have an access door.
I am concerned about heat from the motor. Specifically, what would
give me the best airflow for it. The motor has a cooling fan but that
air has got to go somewhere.
Any advice would be appreciated.
I just finished my 2hp commercial install and used the oneida one pc
wall mount. I found that it had too much flex so i supported the front
of the blower housing with two pcs of threaded rod that go vertical to
a pc of unistrut therefore supporting half the weight. I'm pretty happy
with the end result, but without beefing up the mount it had way too
much flex(the whole cyclone bounced around with the slightest bump. The
blower motor does run very hot so i would be nervous about enclosing
it. Also a Keith
I can certainly understand the movement. Do you find that adding the
threaded rod translates vibration into the studs. My shop space sits
below our family room and I have steel studs.
I have that one piece mount as well. How did you affix it top the wall?
Keith-My shop is also below my bedroom. The threaded rods probably do
transmit some vibes, but my wall mount is lag screwed to some 2x6s
"studs" that sit on top of my concrete 1/2 wall and are connected to an
another 2x6 that spans a couple ceiling joists, so much of the vibes
would be transmitted anyway. You can hear it in the bedroom and feel a
slight vibe in the floor,but it is not loud enough to be a problem. You
can stand next to the cyclone while running and not wear hearing
protection, but its right at the point of being "loud". keith
You didn't mention what type of bin you plan to use. Do you have a
fifty gallon drum, cabinet base, hopper, etc? Whatever you build, you
probably want to keep in mind that you don't want to be lifting your
cyclone up and down on it every time you need to check or empty the
bin.If you build an enclosure, do you plan to mount the cyclone on top
of a shelf and have some sort of can underneath that can be pulled in
and out? This would work well assuming you seal up the lower chamber.
I'm not sure what type of airflow you need to cool your motor. You
might be able to put a small blower motor like one from an old
microwave or something on the top (cyclone section, not dustbin) of the
cabinet to circulate the air. Then you could really go to work
sound-proofing it. With your 2 x 6's you could put some serious
insulation between two layers of drywall. You could even use 2 x 8's
for the base and top plates and alternate every other stud so that no
stud touches both walls. Okay, I'm going off on a tangent.
My cyclone has a cabinet base on heavy duty casters. The cyclone is
mounted directly to the base and there is an internal bin inside the
cabinet. It seems like a good design. I haven't actually hooked it all
Think carefully before using construction adhesive. Once it is on the
block wall, it will never ever come off. If I were you, I'd just attach
the 2x8 to the wall with TapCon screws- use one screw every 12 - 18
inches. The holding power of these things is absolutely amazing. I hung
a 25" TV on a block wall with just 4 of these screws. Two years later
it is still hanging strong.
Assuming the 2x8 goes all the way to the floor, there is really not
going to be a lot of stress on the screws.
I have a floating slab so the board does not bee the floor. I suppose
I could extend a board from the floor over and create a junction.
That being said, the majority of the load would be at the top.
Perhaps, I should attach this to the sill plate as well. I am also
thinking of attaching the mount with the tap-con screws as well - going
through the mount, the wood plat and into the wall.
First advice...make sure you have an extra set of hands to help you. I did
this alone because I couldn't find anybody to help at the time I needed it.
Like others have mentioned, the one piece hanger has some flex. I used a
sheet of 3/4 in ply to mount the hanger to and then bolted the entire
assembly to a wood studded wall. I didn't have enough ceiling height so I
had to frame a box above the unit which extended into my attick area. I'm
in Phoenix and haven't had an issue with cooling this unit even though the
motor is only an inch or so from the ceiling.
I added a block of wood to the wall to support the lower portion of the
cyclone to eliminate the flex of the hanger.
I have pix if you want them posted to abpw.
Keith, I built a freestanding frame to mount my 1-1/2 HP Oneida
cyclone (about 2 years ago), I decided not to mount it to the wall
because it is the wall that seperates the shop (garage) from the
house-didn`t want to transmit the noise through the wall. The frame is
made of 1/4 inch angle steel and the frame is bolted to the floor. It is
solid as a rock. Holler if ya want a picture.
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