GRR-Ripper System

[Tom Banes]

Bob, haven't read it, or don't think I have. Got a title I can google?

Regards.

BTW I'm not exactly short (6'1") but skinny (125#). "Little" just sounds better than skinny. But I can press (not bench press, press) my weight plus about 20%.

[Tom Banes]

Bob:

I started with an MJ splitter (as soon as I yanked the worthless factory BG off), but never got it lined up right - hence the Bies. A lot more expensive but easy to adjust.

Regards.

[BobS]

Tom,

Can't find it myself but if I do, I'll make a new post. But here's the gist of it:

This is for the commercial Xacta fence (right-tilt cabinet saw) which has the recessed screws showing on the side-panels (UHMW) and these are abbreviated, not complete procedures:

1. Add more screws (one between each existing screw) so it will pull the side panels flat.
2. You need to elongate "all" the holes on the side panels (on the UHMW) so the side panels will lay flat when screws are tightened.
3. Screw holes on the fence tube (steel tube) need to be filed / ground / hammered down flat -or- use a small forstner bit to recess the back side of the screw holes on the UHMW panel so it does not ride on the high spot where the screw hole is on the steel fence. Be careful, the screw holes are already recessed on the front so don't go deeper than a couple of thousandths. See explanation below.
4. After drilling, recessing the screws and elongating the screw holes, attach the panels and start snugging up the screws - center ones first and work to the ends.
5. After doing that, check with your dial gauge. Low spots between screws can be shimmed if needed using a piece of paper. If you need more than a single folded piece of paper to shim out - you missed a high spot.
6. Align fence as per instructions and be sure it's perpendicular to the table.

Explanation on screw holes. The screw holes on the steel tube are made using self threading screws. These tend to raise the material around the screw hole so the fence side panels cannot lay flat. We're only talking a few thou and it's enough to give you hills and valleys all along the fence. The holes in the UHMW are tight fitting around the screws and need to be elongated so the panel can move laterally as needed. The factory installed screws are not inserted perpendicular to the tube and when screwed down, they push or pull the UHMW side panels making them "bunch-up" (high spot) between the screws. By either making those flat by filing or by making a recess on the back side of the panel and elongating the holes, the panel will now lay flat.

You can also do the other side of the fence but remember - 99.99% of the time, only one side panel of the fence will probably ever be adjusted perpendicular to the table. The sides of the steel tube would have to be parallel for that to happen. Considering that's just a piece of stock tubing they cut to length, weld other parts on then paint - it's not a precision made fence. So align the left side perpendicular and call it a day (assuming you use your fence on the right side of the blade).

You've already flattened your side panels and know how to align the fence so I didn't include any of those steps. If your fence panels are the type which have the key-hole slots on the backside and slide on to standoffs on the steel tube - these instructions will not work. I do recall someone else making a post about how they were able to get theirs flat but had to replace the (insert name of the widget here) items that hold the panels to the fence tube.

Bob S.

[BillyBob]

Well, I think the Bies is probably a fine piece of gear. Unfortunately it only fits a few elite saws which leaves many of us out.

Bob

[Ba r r y]

There are even elite saws it dosen't fit, like the General 650.

Barry