So far so good with my new G1023S... Received the saw yesterday, moved it
on to the mobile base, and removed the ear wax. In the process of
installing 220 in the garage. The fit and finish is superb. Checked for
miter slot to blade (Freud LU84R011) squareness - 0.0011" out of the box. I
won't be tweaking that. Have not yet looked at table flatness - can't find
my feeler guages. Starrett tape for fence rail still in transit, but am
determined to make a cut before day's end!!! Can't wait!!
Keep us posted. I am right now in the process of making a decision on buying
a cabinet saw. Right now the players seem to be;
* General (350-xx)
* Grizzly (1023z)
* Shopfox (???) -- which depending on who you believe is not the exact same
as the 1023.
* Delta Unisaw
I'm still trying to locate somebody who sells the General line somewhere
close to me so I can check it out in person. After getting my Grizzly 14"
bandsaw though, I might just buy the 1023z sight unseen and hope it's as high
a quality as the bandsaw is.
Ultimately, you have to be happy with your purchase. If you want the Griz,
go for it because I'm sure you'll be happy. I'm simply saying that if you
can afford a Unisaw, you have other options that are not open to many others
and you may not want to jump into anything until you have satisfactorily
researched - it's a lifetime tool, get what you want.
First, I'd like to dispell a couple myths regarding the G1023 saws:
1) The G1023SL is heavier than the G1023S because it has a larger table.
False. For some reason Grizzly, on the website, advertises the right tilt
G1023S as being slightly smaller and lighter (360 pounds) than its left tilt
companion. This is untrue. My right tilt G1023S has the same table
dimensions as its left tilt version, and weighs 420 pounds according to the
included owner's manual - just like the left tilt saw.
2) The Shop Fox version of the saw is heavier and built better. False.
Download both Owner's Manuals in PDF format and find the specifications
pages in each. Weight of each saw is identical. They are the same saw.
Now with regards to the Unisaw, I personally would not buy one over the
Grizzly 1023. I have used both, and truly believe that there is no
compelling reason to spend more on a Unisaw. I guess people tend to think
that the out of the box defect rate will be lower with Delta than with
Grizzly, and I have no way to dispute or verify that. But when it comes to
things such as fit and finish, and studiness they are one in the same.
Furthermore, inspect the castings of the trunions, the table top, the cast
wings, etc, on each and see if you'd still plonk down more for the Unisaw.
However, if it were in my budget, I *would* be compelled to spend the money
on either a General 350 or a Powermatic 66. Not because I think the
woodworking performance of either is appreciably better, but because of the
fine details that I can be picky about.
I've had my 1023S since September '03 and am quite pleased with all the
hardware provided by Grizzly. In fact, I was reading a recent thread above
about the "nickel test" and find that my 1023S passes the test both in the
start up and in the running modes. Moreover, the saw seems to make accurate
cuts with both the supplied miter gauge and Shop Fox fence. I too purchased
the Grizzly extension table, but have a few questions:
1) When one buys the table as an option as well as the extended rails for
the fence he/she ends up with two pairs of support legs for the right end of
the saw. Not sure why one must have to pay for these and it's not clear
what one does with an extra pair of legs. (one needs two more for another
project or perhaps they could be incorporated in an outfeed table.) On the
whole, however, the table from Grizzly is fine, but they could have invested
about a $1.00 more and added formica to the end panel rather than leaving it
as bare wood.
2) Secondly, when one buys the optional table, the right-hand cast iron
wing ends up as an extra item. It seems a shame to have a nice flat wing
sitting in the garage still coated in cosmoline. Has anyone out there
installed the right-hand cast iron wing and shortened the optional table by
10"? In this way one has the larger, flatter cast iron surface as well as
the wood-based extension table. To my mind, this would be a better setup,
but is there any potential problems with stability (too heavy on the right
Really have enjoyed the various ideas on this newsgroup and would appreciate
any input on this issue.
I have the Griz 1023 and built the extension table myself. I replaced the
stock Fox-something fence that came with the Griz, with the Vega fence and
extended rails that were on the saw I was replacing. I left the cast table
extensions on both sides of the saw table installed. ( I couldn't stand the
thought of discarding such perty thangs). I then shortened the self made
extension table to compensate for leaving the cast iron extension
installed. Enough room was left to install a router table affair in the
extension table. The fence rails tie the whole thing together, and I
haven't experienced any downside to the arrangement. One other thing I did
was to modify the mounting bracket for, and the location of, the magnetic
on/off switch. That may not be necessary if you are using a Bies clone
fence and rails, I don't remember if that was the deciding factor in moving
the switch. I love the saw, I love the fence, and I love my wife, but
that's a whole other story.
Hope this helps.
I have the NON z version. I am not sure I would want the z version with the
front and back locking fence. I was in an airport yeserday and came across
the FWW/FHB tool guide. In the cabinet saw review, the Grizzly z series
didn't fair well because the fence "didn't always lock square". This is the
second time I have seen that comment in a magazine review. I have never
had this problem with my shop fox classic (biesemeyer clone), it is solid as
a rock. In my opinion, Grizzly shoots themselves in the foot by supplying
the z series for these tests. Just because the z is more expensive doesn't
make it better.
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