Today's newbie question: In gluing up panels for a mission style hope chest
http://us.st8.yimg.com/store6.yimg.com/I/woodstore_1744_2801352 , do you
glue the panels into the rails and stiles, or let them float free?
let them float, and use a product called "space balls" to remove the
rattle and help center the panel in the frame
watch word wrap
I use a home version of space balls. If you put a line of silicone caulk
onto wax paper and let it dry, you can cut it up into lengths. Put a small
drop of glue into the panel slot, drop a (I call them worms) worm in and
continue the glue up.
Jim in NC
Window screen spline tubing ia available in at least 2 sizes and
considerably less expensive than space balls.
On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 03:17:02 -0500, Traves W. Coppock
<newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote:>let them float, and use a product called "space balls" to remove the
Remember to stain 'em or get some finish on prior to floating them. When
they contract later it could be embarrassing.
If you don't like "space balls" you can use screen gasket, or you can touch
a dab of glue on opposite ends and let it move right and left of your choice
of fixed points.
The other answers suggested good methods of cushioning the panels so
they don't rattle.
But if you are a newbie, you may not know that the purpose of the
floating panel is to give the wood room to expand and contract across
the grain. You want a wide board to have room to expand and contract
with the humidity. That's the purpose of the dadoes in the rails and
stiles. Most people figure around 1/4" per foot across the grain for
movement. If you constrain the panel, you defeat the purpose of the
floating panel design and you could end up with cracked panels.
You could glue the panel at one spot only, or use the cushioning
methods suggested by the other posters ... but definitely don't glue
it fully in so it can't move.
p.s. My apologies if my answer is too basic, but you did say you were
a newbie :-)
Doesn't Hoadley show an example resulting in about 0.26" of movement
in a 12" equivalent, on his book p89? Sure, there is a fair humidity
change in that example, but it's also made using a material with a
modest tangential shrinkage range.
I agree that for most of the time, 1/4" is overkill. On the other
hand, I bet if I built a 12" white oak panel here in dry Colorado and
shipped it to my relatives in Houston, I'd be glad to have at least
Anyway, I admit I am a relative newcomer to this. How much do you
more experienced guys allow?
But is it always necessary to put in cushions? If you look at the picture of
the chest (listed somewhere below), it's pretty solid with small 1/4 inch
panels that are actually in 1/2" dados as 2 1/4" panels back-to-back. Much
less lateral movement in plywood, and not much rattling in back-to-back
panels, I'm guessing. Though I wonder, should I glue the two panels together
or let them float independent of each other?
As an aside, in my first effort since HS I made a nice built-in storage
unit/computer desk from base cabinets, with bookshelves on top. Came out
very well, but I made the doors with 1/4" oak ply panels with no cushions,
and they rattle like nobody's business when opened or close.
wrote in message ...
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