A neighbor is modifying the transom of a door to fit an opening. In the
process he broke the corner off the MDF bottom plate that the transom
windows rest on. Photograph at
Best glue to repair this break?
I agree with almost everything that you have said and almost everything that
you will say in your entire life.
I'd probably reach for the Titebond II, just regular wood glue. With wood
glue, a good fit and more clamping pressure usually results in a better
joint. Just don't damage the wood by cranking things down too tight.
MDF is sawdust and glue. Don't over-think it.
Use wood glue. If it's exterior, use a waterproof glue.
Don't pay attentions to all the wives' tales about over-pressure and all
Just f'n glue it, sand it, paint it, have a beer and enjoy life.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
It is surprising what you can glue together. Many years ago my
daughter broke the head board on her antique bed. She called an asked
what to do. I told her to collect all of the pieces and we would see
what could be done.
Like a puzzle I put all of the pieces back together and glued with
common wood glue. (I do not remember if it was titebond or Elmer wood
glue). Today she is sleeping in the bed every night, and it looks like
nothing happened to it.
I just can't help myself...
Is it OK if I substitute tequila for the beer? ;) Otherwise, good advice.
I was working on some small wood boxes for the wife last night. I had to
putty in some small holes. I have not bought any wood putty for a long
time. I was reading the instructions to see if things have changed. I
found two big changes in the instructions.
1) No clean up instructions. Apparently you just let the putty harden on
your tools and break it off later with a hammer. I used paint thinner.
That worked OK.
2) You are not supposed to apply the wood putty to your eyes??????
Something I never thought about. But this was more important than clean up
On Tuesday, June 28, 2016 at 6:16:00 PM UTC-7, Davoud wrote:
As others have said, any old white glue. When it's dry, give the surface a pass with
a hot iron (use aluminum foil or teflon sheet to keep paint off the iron). The
glue doesn't make much of a seam bulge, but it goes down quicker with some heat
than with sandpaper.
White glue is thermoplastic. I often edge band by applying it to an edge,
let it dry then iron on the edge band (hottest setting). Works well;
however, the wood needs to be thin - up to 1/8" or so - for it to get hot
An alternative way is to apply a heavy coat, let it dry then spritz lightly
it with water (just enough so it turns white again). The water will make
the surface tacky, easier to align banding - which needs to then be
clamped - and less messy, no squeeze out. This is also a way to apply large
sheets of cloth, paper or whatever to a substrate. No clamping is needed
but the thin sheet of whatever needs to be squeeged on well and the dried
glue on the substrate needs to be smooth (I use a surform plane to smooth
On Wednesday, June 29, 2016 at 2:37:37 PM UTC-7, Mike Marlow wrote:
You didn't hear it, you read it in a newsgroup. The water in the glue swells the
fibers near the joint, and the hot iron reflows the glue near the surface so you can
press it flat after it's dry.
Works well on attaching veneers, too (iron-on after letting glue dry on one or both
surfaces). Water-based glue swells the veneer if you apply it wet, and it splits when it
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