I just bought a new hollow core door and it is slightly too wide and too tall for the opening (an eighth inch or less). What is the best way for me to trim it enough so that it will fit plus enough for a coat of primer and paint? Thank you in advance for all replies.
-- Whenever I hear or think of the song "Great green gobs of greasy grimey gopher guts" I imagine my cat saying; "That sounds REALLY, REALLY good. I'll have some of that!"
Sharp handplane or surform tool.
--
Cheap power plane?
My first guess would be to take the excess off the hinge side.
Hand plane or belt sander.
Hi, Snading?
On 7/5/2008 9:35 AM Daniel Prince spake thus:
As others have said, a handplane. *Not* a belt sander, and *not* a Surform. Just a good, sharp handplane (the longer the better).
A surform is, essentially, a form of handplane. The 10" or so float ones are, in fact, a most excellent choice for the purpose, especially for those w/o much experience w/ a regular hand plane. They'll slice the typical veneer quite nicely w/o tearing and don't need any expertise in sharpening that many novice conventional hand plane users may not have.
--
True enough, but the Surform will leave a ratty finish. You'll still need to clean up the edge with a plane or by sanding. A sharp jack or jointer plane is a one step process.
RRicodJour wrote: ...
Certainly no rattier than a novice w/ an untuned hand plane... :)
--
On 7/5/2008 11:49 AM dpb spake thus:
True. A plane *does* take a little skill to operate. It's a skill I recommend that anyone who works with wood should get (and yes, it does include knowing how to sharpen the blade and "tune" the plane).
Now using a hand scraper, that's another essential tool I'm still learning how to use ...
And, given the forum and the question, the likelihood of that happening w/ OP is roughly nil; hence the alternate suggestion.
--
I prefer gnawing. Unless the object is sub-radiant.
dpb wrote: ...
Speaking of which, I can't recall where I saw it or exactly who made it, but (I think it was Scandinavian; I'm sure it was European) I have seen an alternative "plane" design that was very similar to a set of hacksaw blades bound together very tightly in a handle. It was reviewed (in FWW iirc where I saw it) w/ accolades as a wood remover that did "ok" work for roughout and dimensioning, similar to surform but somewhat less rough.
And, of course, for relatively small volume w/ the softness of wood in any hollow-core door I've seen, a wood rasp followed up w/ file and a little sanding wouldn't take all that long.
And, while I almost hate to mention it owing to the trouble it can cause if one isn't careful and/or inexperienced, there's always the circular saw w/ a _very_ fine quality ply/veneer blade guided by a straightedge. To take off such a narrow strip means running the saw on the door, of course, which also means protecting the surface and all, but it's certainly "doable" if one has a fair amount of handiness w/ the tool.
I have, even, taken them and run them over the jointer, but I don't recommend that to the neophyte, either... :)
--
Are you talking to yourself again? =:0
Japanese. If you'd said the Shinto rasp, I wouldn't have argued. It leaves a better surface than the Surform.
RicodJour wrote: ...
Similar, but not the same as what I'd seen -- don't know which was/is a derivative of the other...
--
I think I need to remove more than 1/8 inch. If I removed just 1/8 inch the door would fit very tightly, like a cork, without room for paint.
How much smaller than the opening is a door usually made? How much extra should I allow for paint?
The only plane I have is a Sureform type. I have a circular saw and I have used it with straight edges a few times.
What do you recommend to protect the door surface? Would painter's tape or masking tape be good?
-- I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets. They were all gourmands!
A nickel on the top and a dime on the sides. The usual gap at the bottom would be a 1/2 ". The sides should both be cut at about a
3 degree bevel or you will need more forgiveness to allow the door to close.
I like to have a 1/8" gap on the hinge side and 3/16" gap on the top and latch sides. The bottom side is whatever clears the carpet.
Notice that the latch side is beveled about 5? so the door will close. Make sure to leave the bevel.
You should allow 20 mils (0.020 inches) (500um) for the paint. For really thick paint.
If you figure about half the thickness of a human hair, you'll be close enough.
Daniel Prince wrote: ...
I like Steve's dimensions, too...
...
You'll need a very good blade; I like to use the plywood/veneer-cutting types so don't split the veneer (hopefully).
The tape may help along the cut line some; for the door itself so the sole plate doesn't leave telltale marks I use a pad on the saw base itself. I have a piece of a thin flexible cooking rolling pad cut to size and use sanding disc spray adhesive to hold it on.
To improvise, a piece of thin cardboard or similar would suffice...
--
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.