Glazing cherry

[davenuc]

I have a cherry furniture piece that I've stained with a cherry minwax wipe on stain but the color is way too light for me. I want to get a darker look to the piece and was thinking about putting a glaze on it. I've already sealed the first stain with a poly and am wondering how to proceed with glazing and a final finish. Can I just use another oil based stain on top of the sealed wood and then finish with poly? I've never used a glaze before but I know furniture makers use them all the time. Can I just combine my cherry stain with a darker stain to make the darker glaze?

thanks, dave

[SonomaProducts.com]

You can't really use oil stain over poly, not with much adherance.

I would go with a tinted poly like polyshades or color some poly yourself with trans tint or the like. Alternatively you could use a gel stain, (probably the best approach) which is basically poly and stain mixed together in a goop. I used the deep redish\magenta type cherry color similar to the General Finishes Georgian Cherry

and really liked it. I was using it on mahogany but it blended the real lumber and the veener ply to a common tone which I need on the project.

In all cases you'll need to scuff sand the current poly to get the new coat to adhere. I'd use 320 by hand and lightly dull the whole surface.

This goes without say> I have a cherry furniture piece that I've stained with a cherry minwax

[GarageWoodworks]

The perfect finish for cherry is 'patience'. Put on a few coats of poly and just wait as it darkens on it's own in a few weeks!

See here (NO stain or glaze (aka 'paint')

[ROY!]

Just wait until the weather warms up then put the piece outside in the sunlight for a few days. Alternatively, put the piece near a window which receives a good deal of sunlight and turn the piece 45 degrees every few days to even out the darkening.

ROY!

[Frank Boettcher]

I recently finished a couple of cherry pieces using the Valspar/Thermowood antique cherry finishing system. The glaze was applied after the seal coat. The sequence was sapwood stain, NGR stain, color stain, wash coat seal, then glaze, then five additional steps. This was a laquer based system, don't know about your poly seal, however, Flexner devotes a chapter to glazing and toning, both post seal coloring techniques.

The glaze really blended the color and darkened it slightly.

Although complicated, it produced the best results I've aver achieved. And although many steps, it was lacquer based so very short dry times intercoat.

Frank

[B A R R Y]

I learned similar steps years ago, with an extra wash coat before the color stain, in a finishing class, using Behlen / Mohawk products.

I totally agree the results can be spectacular.

[Pat Barber]

Yep... but it involves a spray gun or a rattle can for the quick version or maybe these products:

down for the "glazing"...

Adding color to a shellac or lacquer finish would also allow for quick change of color this would need to be sprayed.

I'm not sure about finishing over poly....

davenuc wrote:

[B A R R Y]

Easily done on many items with a cheap "Critter":

I have two HVLP systems, yet I've still worn the paint off my Critter, powered by a pancake compressor. If the project is narrowed down to smaller sections (doors / drawer fronts / frames, etc...), and the finish is "slowed down" a touch with thinners or retarders, it's amazing what can be sprayed with the combination.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Frank,

Where can I get some more > >

[Frank Boettcher]

prepared for a little sticker shock. The pre packaged schedules are expensive. I considered it "tuition" to learn how to use all the steps and tecniques in the schedule. I think I may be able to duplicate the schedules at a lower cost or if you buy volume the prices is a little better.

Frank

[Ross Hebeisen]

cherry glazing on top of a smoked pork chop is most excellent. ross