I have a cherry furniture piece that I've stained with a cherry minwax
wipe on stain but the color is way too light for me. I want to get a
darker look to the piece and was thinking about putting a glaze on
it. I've already sealed the first stain with a poly and am wondering
how to proceed with glazing and a final finish. Can I just use
another oil based stain on top of the sealed wood and then finish with
poly? I've never used a glaze before but I know furniture makers use
them all the time. Can I just combine my cherry stain with a darker
stain to make the darker glaze?
You can't really use oil stain over poly, not with much adherance.
I would go with a tinted poly like polyshades or color some poly
yourself with trans tint or the like. Alternatively you could use a
gel stain, (probably the best approach) which is basically poly and
stain mixed together in a goop. I used the deep redish\magenta type
cherry color similar to the General Finishes Georgian Cherry
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5555 and really liked
it. I was using it on mahogany but it blended the real lumber and the
veener ply to a common tone which I need on the project.
In all cases you'll need to scuff sand the current poly to get the new
coat to adhere. I'd use 320 by hand and lightly dull the whole
This goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway). You should first
replicate the current situation on leftover stock and see if adding
this next layer of color gets you what you want. Again, no need to say
it but... next time, do all of the finishing steps on some sample wood
before you start putting even the first bit of finish on the actual
Just wait until the weather warms up then put the piece outside in the
sunlight for a few days. Alternatively, put the piece near a window
which receives a good deal of sunlight and turn the piece 45 degrees
every few days to even out the darkening.
I recently finished a couple of cherry pieces using the
Valspar/Thermowood antique cherry finishing system. The glaze was
applied after the seal coat. The sequence was sapwood stain, NGR
stain, color stain, wash coat seal, then glaze, then five additional
steps. This was a laquer based system, don't know about your poly
seal, however, Flexner devotes a chapter to glazing and toning, both
post seal coloring techniques.
The glaze really blended the color and darkened it slightly.
Although complicated, it produced the best results I've aver achieved.
And although many steps, it was lacquer based so very short dry times
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 11:50:36 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
Be prepared for a little sticker shock. The pre packaged schedules
are expensive. I considered it "tuition" to learn how to use all the
steps and tecniques in the schedule. I think I may be able to
duplicate the schedules at a lower cost or if you buy volume the
prices is a little better.
Yep... but it involves a spray gun or a rattle can
for the quick version or maybe these products:
Scroll down for the "glazing"...
Adding color to a shellac or lacquer finish would also
allow for quick change of color this would need to be
I'm not sure about finishing over poly....
Easily done on many items with a cheap "Critter":
<(Amazon.com product link shortened)99473452&sr=1-1>
I have two HVLP systems, yet I've still worn the paint off my Critter,
powered by a pancake compressor. If the project is narrowed down to
smaller sections (doors / drawer fronts / frames, etc...), and the
finish is "slowed down" a touch with thinners or retarders, it's amazing
what can be sprayed with the combination.
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