FS Tablesaw

[Sockman]

I'm selling my Craftsman table saw. There is one catch though, it will be

220 volt.

My wife wants new kitchen cabinets and I plan to build them myself. A guy at work is selling a Delta Unit saw, the cabinet model. It is a good deal, excpet the 3 horse motor is 220 volt and he says I can't change it to 120 volts. Than't not a problem though. My Craftsman has a 3 1/2 horse motor at

120 volt so I'm going to swap them.

The Delta Unit saw will be better with the slightly larger motor and the smaller Craftsman will still be OK with the 3 horse motor.

I paid $199 for the Craftsman saw about four years ago. I'm hoping to get maybe $150 out of it, but I'd drop a few bucks if you want to put the motor on yourself. It is a damned good saw and the only reason I'm selling it is to get the Delta Unit saw to make cabinets. It has a bigger fence so I can cut plywood easier.

I'm located in western Mass and own a small delivery service. I cover all of New England and New York so I can arrange delivery of the saw in that area. .

Ralph Engerman RE Quick Transit

[Jim Martin]

Be careful there. The unisaw motor is unique to that saw and I sort of doubt (could be wrong here) that your other motor will fit. Why don't you go check things out on

Good luck,

Jim

[codepath]

FYI: It's "Unisaw" not "Unit saw".

[Bob Davis]

Sockman,

I seriously doubt the craftsman motor is bigger than the Delta. If the craftsman motor is 120volt, then it couldn't possibly be more than 1 3/4 horsepower. Craftsman invented the overrating of motors through marketing hype.

I would say the delta motor is almost twice the power of the craftsman motor. You will be underpowering the delta saw and creating a danger by putting the bigger motor in the craftsman saw which may not be built to handle it.

Leave the Delta motor where it is and arrange to get 220 volt to it.

Bob

[Pounds on Wood]

Nice cast.

[BM Cooper]

Thank god for that clarification. My johnson shriveled up at the thought of a "Unit saw"...

[BM Cooper]

I forgot to ask -- was this a 10 inch unit saw?

[Luigi Zanasi]

On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 03:04:28 GMT, "Sockman" scribbled:

At 100% efficiency, 3.5HP would draw 21.75 amps. You must have a pretty big breaker to run that saw, and I hope your circuit uses at least 10 gauge wire.

Oh!, I forgot. That's Sears horsepower. Who else but Sears can defy the laws of physics and make a 3.5 horsepower motor that works on a 15 Amp circuit at 120 Volts?

Don't do it, i.e. switch the motors, even in the unlikely event the motors fit when you switch them around. Sears lies about its horsepower. Simple math, which you can check out for yourself in any good reference:

1HP=746Watts

Volts X Amps = Watts (for 120/240 volts)

So 3.5 HP = 2,611 Watts

2,611 Watts / 120 Volts = 21.75 amps.

So, you're going to have a much less powerful motor.

Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

[Charlie Self]

Sockman speaks thusly:

That electric boat motor is almost silent until the swap.

Charlie Self I don't approve of political jokes. I've seen too many of them get elected.

[Charlie Self]

What a bite!

Pret' near every tool manufacturer who makes benchtop saws or routers and sells them in the U.S. and Canada.

Charlie Self I don't approve of political jokes. I've seen too many of them get elected.

[mp]

Naw, the Sears rating is overly optimistic. What you're suggesting is equivalent to putting a Yugo engine in a Vette.

What you need to do is get another 220v motor and run the two in series. This will halve your voltage requirement per motor and allow you pull a total of 6hp off of your 120v lines.

[Unisaw A100]

What is rather interesting is, Delta was playing the numbers game on motor horsepower (horsepowere Luigi) long before Sears ever did. If memory serve me it appears in the ancient Delta text (dirty paper) as far back as the late

30's/early 40's in their comparison of repulsion/induction motors.

UA100

[Mike in Mystic]

hehe, exactly what I was thinking right off the bat. Looks like Ralph caught himself some of the wreck's big fish today hehe.

[Jon Endres, PE]

OK.

Good luck. The craftsman motor won't fit in the Unisaw (that's Unisaw, BTW - not "Unit saw".

So you're going to put a Sears motor in a Unisaw, thinking you'll get more power? Why don't you just buy one of Sears shop vacs that has 6.5 hp and use that motor? See what I'm getting at? Sears has somewhat of a problem with horsepower ratings, and that motor is probably somewhere around 3/4 horse.

Save yourself a LOT of time and hassle, buy the Unisaw, have an electrician install a 220 volt outlet in your shop (it's really easy to do), and dump the Craftsman saw as-is.

Jon E

- whose wimpy 3-hp "Unit saw" will rip through 3" thick green oak without a stutter.

[Pounds on Wood]

Yea, it was a good effort. I caught on when he said his old Craftsman was a "damn good saw".

--

[Pounds on Wood]

Doh!

Get rag ... clean monitor ... get fresh coffee

--

"codepath"

[George Berlinger]

My old Sears contractor saw(10 yrs old)....could be wired for 120 or

220...( ran mine on 220).said it could develop 3 h.p.,.....had cast iron wings too, not like the junk they sell now. My new Unit saw ( Alias Unisaw) is a hand down winner.....doesn,t bog in 5/4 oak......has cast iron wings n table to boot....cabinet saw,....there is no comparision between the saws; the Unisaw is much better. Cheaper for you to run some wire for a new 220 line Motors probably won,t fit right anyway.......

[WebsterSteve]

Did you ever find that primer for your cherry table from a few years ago?

[Bob Davis]

You're kidding right?

[RE Quick Transit]

"George Berlinger"

I thought abou tis George, but it is tough getting the big wire out to the garage. I have a simple solution though.

I took some extra lunch time at work and got the saw home. It took four of us to lift it into the backof the SUV. I feel kind of silly, it is a UniSaw, not a unit saw. I got both motors out already. That was easy enough, but you are right, they are not fully compatible. So, I'm going to do a little modification. Seems the Delta has a three belt drive system but the Craftsman has direct drive.

Since the direct drive is more efficient than the friction loss of the belt system, I'm converting it to the direct drive. Should have less vibration too. I only have to drill four holes in the table top to mount it and I'll use countersunk screws.

Note to Fred M. If you are still interested in the Craftsman saw, I'll sell it to you cheap, but the adjusting system for the blade is going into the new saw. Let me know.

Ralph Engerman R E Quick Transit