Front door refinishing

Hi, I have a large front wooden front door that has a coating of varnish, I believe. At least I think it is varnish, it is reddish brown.

Anyway, the door is about ready to need refinishing. What would be the best way to do it? Should I sand it down to wood or just sand the existing varnish smooth and refinish?

What is the best thing to put on it? It gets a good deal of afternoon sun and some rain when the wind blows enough so it needs to be waterproof and be able to hold up to the sun.

Thanks! Gary

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User Example
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I've got the same issues. Have a cherry double door front entry (also cherry framed stained glass on 2nd story above the doorway). About every other year we refinish it. Depending on the shape of the old finish we sometimes take it down to bare wood. If the finish isn't in too bad of shape, you can scuff sand with 220 grit or so (or use steel wool). I always use a marine grade spar varnish. Has good UV protection and a certain amount of flexibility for a piece of wood exposed to elements and high heat. Provides the best protection I can find for a door with so much exposure to the elements.

Gary in KC

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Gary A in KC

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User Example

most paint stores have it or can at least get it.

Reply to
bridgerfafc

I have a Pella fiberglass door that was stained professionally. I was going to have the guy that stained it use spar varnish but he suggested something entirely different. The reason why I replaced the door was because the heat of the sun actually warped my steel door so I can confirm that there is a lot of sun exposure. The product this guy recommended is from Therma-tru which is another manufacturer of fiberglass and wood doors. It is a UV rated acrylic finish that dries very quickly and can be applied with the door up. It needs to be applied annually but surface prep is easy - just clean the door with water and a mild soap, rinse and then dry. Only need one coat every year and he put three coats for a start. We've had one heck of a sunny summer and I have to say the finish held up perfectly. I've seen spar varnish turn white in sun like we had this summer so I'm convinced this stuff is good.

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'm going to contact them to see if I can just get the finish and not the whole system as I have to recoat my door this year.

Reply to
D Steck

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Now THERE is an oxymoron if I ever heard one.

I redid my mother's (West-facing SoCal) wooden door with Watco oil finish. It lasts about 6 months before needing another 10 minute treatment. (Wipe on, wait 15, wipe off.)

I'd try Waterlox now if either of us still lived there. The

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Original finish is tung oil plus varnish.

I use this:

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wants this, and maybe some of their sealer first:
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Reply to
Larry Jaques

Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Dang it, Larry! Some of us just don't like the natural color of fiberglass!

Patriarch

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Patriarch

Learning to appreciate the natural color of things, even fiberglass, is an acquired taste, ya stainy old coot.

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

If you refinish it, consider a Sikkens product, I've used the door product on my double cedar doors, however they are under a 5' overhang. Sikkens products have far outperformed others on my cedar siding, fascia, windows, as well as a couple interior products. Bit more expensive but great coverage. Thompsons Water Seal, Behr's Liquid Rawhide, any outdoor stain I've tried, all no contest. Otherwise the Marine Spar Varnish or a properly applied epoxy product would be my other choices. Steve Jensen Abbotsford B.C. snipped-for-privacy@canada.mortise.com chopping out the mortise. Surfing along at 19200 bps since 95. BBS'ing since 1982 at 300 bps. WW'ing since 1985

Nothing catchy to say, well maybe..... WAKE UP - There are no GODs you fools!

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Scorp

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