Air drill is the solution for metal less torque when it bites and
stops, I have done through steel up to a 1/4 inch with bimetal hole
saws, used a lot of WD40. You do what you need to do to do the job
with what you have.
Just stop. Stop digging the hole. It's embarrassing.
I've drilled hundreds, yes, hundreds of holes that size and larger with
a handheld battery and corded drills with holes saws. That thing you
showed is antiquated.
Sit back and learn from those with experience. Not googlectuals.
Peanut gallery. Wow.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Actually so has the automotive industry. Hole saws were used with a
hand held drill to add AC systems to vehicles as a retrofit many years
ago. Refrigerant lines had to be run from under the hood through the
firewall into the evaporator unit.
Note I never sed, "it can not be done". Also note the U2B video speaks
of the problems of drilling metal with the tools shown and even shows
the tools binding, stalling, etc.
I might (but, prolly not) try this with my DW portable battery drill
motor, with sed clutch mechanism, but definitely not with my Milwaukee
1/2" drill motor w/o clutch mechanism (400rpm). The first time that
Milwaukee caught, it'd probably almost break my wrist (BTDT!).
You wanna try it? Be my guest. I'll use a stepped-bit or a drill
press, thank you. ;)
As fer "the automotive industry", I've frequented those sound-system
chop shops. Their "hole saws" were defeated by my '66 Dodge van
dashboard. Perhaps they were using "old school" hole saws.
Yes, I AM "old school". Not all my drill motors are battery pwrd and
have clutches. NOT all my pwr tools are StopSaws or Festools. Funny
that a hobby like woodworking, which so highly prizes "old school"
hand craftmanship, takes me to task fer not having the newest
technology. That's OK. I unnerstan. ;)
BTW, my 1/4" paring chisel finally arrived. Yay!
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 6:20:12 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
Why does it appear that you just keep forgetting that you said:
"Never happen in metal."
"Using a hole saw to make a doorknob hole ina door. I see yer point
about using the hole saw in wood. Never happen in metal."
Yeah, I suck. 8|
But! ....I have faith that all you perfect people will set me
straight and will eventually mold me into the exact person you want me
to be. I'll jes sit here in the corner and think precisely what you
instruct me to think.
Jinkies! We having fun, yet? ;)
Darnist thing I saw was a Satellite tech do is drill through a metal
building with a high speed flat drill used for wood. I thought I'd see
metal snagging easy. Cut nice. I figure a toothed Forstner drill instead.
On 3/30/2016 3:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Good Forstner bits are not cheap. Cheap Forstner bits can be cheap.
With out a center spur the bit has to be well made and sharpened to keep
it on track. FWIW I would choose a Fuller bit over a Bosch or Freud if
I needed to accomplish an excellent result repeatedly hundreds of times.
BUT not even that bit creates a "totally" flat bottom hole, it still
creates an indentation around the perimeter of the bottom of the hole,
and typically about as deep as the spur center on those that have them.
The Forstner bit requires the perimeter of the hole to be cut first,
like a brad point bit and then the flutes cutting edges cut out the
center and leave a flat surface.
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