I'm thinking I will use angled cuts as opposed to an actual curve
primarily because the outside edges will be edged with the cherry rail and
the inside will be laminate edges to make cleaning easier and less worry
about liquid damage to the wood
Warning: Bad ASCII art:
_____________ Inside workspace -- laminate edging
\ End and outside workspace, cherry edging
A question for you, the overall length of the peninsula exceeds 12 feet,
so I am going to need a seam, in your opinion, what is less distracting, an
approximately 6" seam at the back of the peninsula where it intersects
an "L" going to the stove, or making the "L" piece a single piece and
letting the seam occur at the natural intersection of the two elements?
If that question isn't clear, let me know and I will try to clarify.
\/ Seam here?
| |_____________________________ Peninsula extension
/\ Or seam here?
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
You don't want seams near corners. Hard to get around with mitres...I
A narrow strip like that will make a nice seam.
Don't use the factory edge though. Trim with a sharp routerbit and a
straight-edge about 1/2" from the end of the sheet. It is always a
good idea to make sure you have a small inside radius at the inside
corner. You also do not want a seam in the substrate at that corner.
Offset by at least 3".
Make sure the edge of the laminate is clean from glue before butting
the strip to the edge of the big sheet.
When cleaning up the edges of the seam with a router bit.. a nice,
sharp 1/2" bit works great.
Be prepared for some weird reflective things when adding the strip.
Rotating HD series laminate 90degrees messes with the 'pattern'....
and I'm assuming you have to take your piece from the longitudinal
Bella Venito is pretty friendly.
Another trick: believe it or not, the 'base' of the colour is white.
Running a hard tip of a permanent black marker on the very edge of the
trimmed strip, will assist in hiding the visibility. Don't get any on
I should be charging for these tips...you owe me 2 cents.
Hey, I owe you 6 cents, can I do the same thing?
Thanks for all the very useful information. My ss counter came out
great. When I get the backsplash finished, I'll post pic (if I can
figure out how to do that).
Information about installation of the perforated flange studs, sink
silicone, and mounting method all just right. I was worried about a
sink, water dishes and a food disposer hanging on there being too much
for those studs. I don't think I could knock them off with a 10 lb
sledge. Guide blocks made all the difference in the world to get a
I will, although regarding SS, I will give equal time to your
original recommendation, that is, leave it to the pros. I have a lot
more respect for that position with the lofty perch of hindsight. It
is definitely not a casual DIY project. However, came out very well
and I had the experience which were the goals. And of course, time
will tell whether I broke any rules. Don't think I did, researched
Webb supply, Munford TN by mail order. No local supply houses had
any. Worked well. Had standoff nibs to keep one from getting too
much squeeze out. Used integra adhesive. Their web video helped to
ease the anxiety about holding power.
Looks good, was you home built by "General Homes"? I recall General homes
building houses about 20 years ago with the tile counter tops.
May I offer a suggestion for the other side "L"? I re-did my counter tops
about 17 years ago much like you have. I have the wood front trim but used
solid wood on the back splashes. 17 years later they still look fine.
Anyway, and easier way to deal with that "L" is to simply cut a "1" piece
"L" out of a full sheet of plywood. There is more waste but the fit is
perfect with no seam in the corner of the "L" and no angles to cut and bring
We had the same type of tiling in our kitchen although at
least it was white versus pink. I hated it. Really hated
Since the cabinets were sound, I refinished them and
replaced the countertop with granite slab.
I've recently completed some other projects with laminate
and I have to say that Formica laminate does appear to me
to be slightly better (tougher and more stain resistent)
than the Wilson Art equivalent.
Nevertheless, these shelves were done in Wilson Art and
worked out pretty well:
The supports are standard PVC 0.5in water pipe painted
with some spray enamel. 3/8in rebar running down the
middle of each one. Alternate shelves are screwed to
the studs to make it very stable. Very inexpensive and
quite innovative I think, for a kids room.
I used oak ply and the undersides of the shelves are
simply sanded, poly'ed and waxed. Some folks would
prefer to have laminate undersides too but I like it
the way it is and it saved me buying another sheet
The edge banding is laminate and I glued that in place
with epoxy for strength and used regular contact cement
on the main surfaces.
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
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