My wife is keen on me getting a Saw Stop table saw because of the safety
side of things. But she wants me to wait until they have a contractor's
saw available (I believe it is out now, but we still can't afford this
thing for another 6 to 12 months anyway) because the cost of the cabinet
maker's saw is steep. I know, I know... what's the cost of a hand or a
middle finger compared to a new saw... But I'm thinking that I might be
able to convince her that I could get a Grizzly cabinet maker's saw for
the same price, or near about, as a Saw Stop contractor's saw. My
concern is in moving a Grizzly (or something like it) around my garage.
As I understand it, the big saws weigh about 400 or 500 pounds. Is it
possible to have a cabinet maker's saw on a rolling base for mobility,
or should they generally be placed in one position and left there? Is
it smart to be moving a cabinet maker's saw on a mobile stand, in terms
of twisting the frame or throwing the alignment off? Can a 170lb shrimp
like me move a 400lb cabinet maker's saw without throwing my back out
A table saw can be put on a mobile base, no problem. Most machines can
be put on a mobile base, probably not a floor drill press as it is a
bit top heavy. There are good bases and not-so-good, beware. You
should do a "60-second tuneup" whenever you move a heavy machine.
It's all about the wheel quality. There are casters, and there are
I have cheezy, not-so-good wheels under a 250 pound tool that is hard
to move. I've seen high-end tool chests full of tools, probably
weighing 2000 pounds, that moved when I lightly leaned on it. I also
park and ground maneuver 2-3000 pound airplanes with only a push bar.
Of course, proper leverage and body mechanics are a biggie when
protecting the back.
My Grizzly 1023 saw rolls on a Shop Fox mobile base. The alignment issue is
negligible. The motor/trunnion assembly and fence rails are mounted to the
saw's top and is not affected by the movement of the base. This is the case for
(I think) all cabinet saws. I cannot speak to hybrid and contractor saws.
I prefer the Shop Fox bases because there is no jacking required as there is
with some of the other bases out there. The caster are on the floor and a
simple screw down brake method keeps the saw where it belongs. Although my shop
is not exactly small, all of the larger stationary tools are on mobile bases.
It just makes things easier.
BTW: I like the 1023.
New Eagle, PA
"Bill Waller" wrote in message:
Although my shop
| is not exactly small, all of the larger stationary tools are on mobile
| It just makes things easier.
When I was about 40, I figured out that I might in the future want to move
I started on a program to put everything on casters and built angle iron
bases. I have a 4" offset on the bases with 4x6 angle holding the casters.
It's hard to explain, without a picture or diagram, but it doesn't raise the
machines more than 1" from the floor and I can hold the machines in place
with some stops I made from 3/4" threaded rod with a cross handle screwed
into a threaded coupling, which is welded to the machine base. If anyone is
really interested in how to build a heavy-duty base, post here and I will
post a picture in abpw.
Essentially, I think any machine can be rigged with a mobile base that can
be fixed not to move and be really solid. I do not plan to do as much with
my Northfield bandsaw, as it is top-heavy. It is safer bolted to the floor.
have a good day, woodstuff
Max, thank you for the pictures. Two questions.
1) Are you using a socket extension etc. to turn those bolts? I don't bend
over that easily anymore.
2) When using the saw, do you throw down a pieces of wood or steel scrap
under the bolts, or, do they simply rest on concrete. Weather permitting, I
like to roll out my table saw onto the driveway to help with dust control.
I would probably use some plywood scraps under the bolt so the saw does not
settle into the asphalt.
Great design of yours!!! Very likely that I will copy it.
The bolts are 1/2". The hex head is 3/4". I use a deep socket on an
| extension. My driveway is concrete so I don't have a problem with the
| digging in.
| Your idea of using plywood scraps should work just fine.
Crutch tips work well for me on concrete; I welded some 1/2" pipe across the
top of the bolts for handles, and it doesn't take much pressure to
immobilize the machine.
OK, this cabinet makers' saw that you are referring to is actually called a
Cabinet Saw. It is a saw that has a cabinet, it is not named after a
With that out of the way, I would go SawStop over a Grizzly. Not that
Grizzly does not build a good tool, but you give up a lot going with the
Grizzly over a SawStop. It's like going from one extreme in quality to the
other. The SawStop has a lot of features that the Grizzly and many other
That said, yes you can put a mobile base under a Cabinet saw. I have all my
large tools on mobile bases. I have a 52" rip capacity Jet cabinet saw
setting on a 3 wheel Jet/HTC mobile base and storage on the base under the
I much prefer 3 wheel over 4 wheel as 3 wheels are always setting solidly on
the floor with no adjustments and I never use the brakes.
This is exactly the same setup I _used_ to have. I also had a router in
the right-hand extension wing. There were times that the damned saw
would move while I was using it, or the router. No, I wasn't pushing
against a dull cutter. The two wheels under the cabinet would slide on
my concrete floor. And the one "locking" wheel under the right hand
extension table would still rotate with a suprisingly light push on the
end of the extension table when locked. It frustrated me at times.
I recently decided I did not need the saw to be mobile, and I took it
off of that base. Its now sitting on two laminated layers of 3/4
plywood, with shims between the plywood and floor to level it. And I
replaced the right hand extension table with a shop-built router table
with a heavy top, cabinets below, and heavy-duty non-slip levelers on
the bottom. The thing no longer moves. And that jarring "bang" that the
saw sometimes made at startup, with the attendant transient blade wobble
is gone, too. And unexpected pleasant side-effect.
My 8-inch jointer, bandsaw, and drill press are also on mobile bases.
Unlike the Jet/HTC base, these are the type that has two wheels on one
side and two non-slip levelers that rest on the floor on the other side.
When its time to move the machine, a foot operated lever situated
between the levelers lifts that side on a third wheel. I've found this
type of mobile base to be satisfactory with those machines.
Well, if you _must_ have wheels rather than levelers, yes, a three wheel
configuration works best on an uneven floor. I don't understand how you
get away without using the brakes, though.
Wow! your wheels would slide??? I once pushed hard enough on mine that I
could tip the saw before the sheels would move. Do you have a heavy saw
setting on the base, a cabinet saw? I coul deasily see a contratcors saw
not being heavy enough. That said, the right table extension will move if I
push on it but the wheels supporting the saw itself are turned 90 degrees to
the direction that I push and there has been absolutely no movement during
use for the past 8 years and I do pull it out from a differnt location each
time I use it. Or perhaps my less than slick garage floor helps keep the
wheels from sliding. :~).
That is strange that the bang disappeared as that is caused by the motor
torque on the belts. Mine does it some times and some times not depending
on the supply of electricity.
Well as previously mentioned, it is probably the floor not being slick that
provides the wheels with enough traction that they do not slide.
Same saw as yours, I think (Jet JTAS10). Running hard, heavy stock (8/4
wenge) through the saw would do it. I could almost count on it happening
when I used the router table, which was the final straw for me.
My basement floor is concrete, painted. Maybe its a bit more slick than
your garage floor.
I think that there might be some cabinet stiffness issues as well. That
would be the best theory to explain why more firm contact with the floor
reduces or eliminates it.
Thanks again to everyone who answered on this issue. There's a lot of
good information out there and I'm going to be thinking a little more
seriously now about a cabinet saw (thanks Leon) on GOOD casters (thanks
Bonehenge), but now I'm back to wondering how the heck we'll ever afford
a SawStop cabinet saw. I have done some research on various cabinet and
contractor saws (FW Annual Tool guide, various WW mags, opinions here,
etc) and what will be a big factor for me will be non-adjustable
tolerance flaws in the workmanship or parts. Things like overly large
warp or hills/valleys in surfaces, where I can't do anything about it,
are likely to make me go to another model. Thanks again.
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