First "Commisioned" Project Done - Lessons Learned

You start at the 1 inch mark to help prevent a short measurement. As rulers and scales get dropped on their end's the beginning marks tend to disappear. Scales tend to start in from the end to eliminate this problem.

Reply to
Leon
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Anyone who doesn't have a similiar story to tell is full of it.

SH - The "been there done that" woodworker. Especially the getting hit in the gut with the speeding bullet!

Reply to
Slowhand

That's why I mentioned a worn tape measure. Being a fella who can't always throw things away when their life is used up, one of my old tapes is missing a rivet and the other rivet allows for about a 1/8" movement from being almost out! Plus, that remaining rivet will catch the tape

1/4" off the mark! I try to grab the new 30 footer when I can, but it is nice to have multi tapes everywhere, within reach most all of the time.
Reply to
Mark and Kim Smith

Wouldn't you actually add the inch??

That's the way I was raised ( in my schooling.) "Burn an inch!" For instance, to measure 16", start at your 1" mark, go to 16", add an inch. Done.

Reply to
Mark and Kim Smith

Just curious ..... I have only made ONE "Commisioned" project in my entire life and to be honest it came out beautiful...and I may have made a few bucks...

I have been asked 100's of times to build something for a friend or a friend of a friend etc...BUT I will never do it again...

What do the majority of you guys or gals do when asked.....?

I honestly did NOT enjoy the "work"...and I do classify it as work... because I never enjoyed "work"...and I was doing something for someone else...

When I walk into my garage I like having the freedom to do MY thing... MY WAY etc....just found that building (it was a desk) for someone else made me feel like I was punching a clock

Bob Griffiths

Reply to
Bob G.

...regarding not taking "commissioned" work as isn't fun or self-chosen...

All depends -- when I was young and needing extra income, I would take anything I thought was remotely within my capabilities (both personal and shop). As I matured, that went through a progression of approaching your attitude except I wouldn't say "never", I'd just pick and choose depending on what else I was doing at the time and whether it looked interesting enough to enjoyable...

So, I'd say unless you have other constraints, do whatever feels good...

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

Been there. It was the defining moment that made me get a contractor's saw to replace the bench top delta. I was cutting laminate flooring on th bench top saw. The board was about 12 inches long and maybe 6 inches wide. It caught me just below the ribs on the right side, then somehow shot up and hit me in the face with the flat side. Getting hit in the face was an odd experience. The laminate was light, but there was enough force that it felt like someone was pushing it into my face. No facial injuries though. Where it hit me in the gut, I still have a

1.5" scar. It didn't really bruise so much as cut. I was bleeding a little, but no blood on the shirt oddly enough. I'm sort of surprised it scarred.

brian

Reply to
brianlanning

Mark and Kim Smith wrote in news:d0sodg$ snipped-for-privacy@dispatch.concentric.net:

Sounds like it's good enough for fence work, or laying out the garden, or such.

Rather like keeping the old Craftsman chisels around, for when you don't want to screw up the 'good' ones.

Patriarch

Reply to
Patriarch

I've been bitten by that once though. I used two tape measures and one was off by 2 mm after 240 cm. And I used one to measure one side pane of a cupboard and the other for the other side. Don't ask me why, I don't know. Probably because I temporarely lost one. Part of the shelf holes were measured from the top and part from the bottom. All the shelves were 2 mm off over 46 cm...

I tossed the tape after I found out. It was a new metric/imperial Stanley, but apparently the Quality control was not very well done on the metric side.

Reply to
mare

Thanks for the tip. Luckily there are only a couple of spots on it that show... and I pulled out the 'Oh... thats just the figure of the wood' statement and dodged like crazy. She's onto me, but she's too happy with it to gripe methinks.

Mike W.

Reply to
Mike W.

So does that mean that the splitter that the blade guard is part of is no good? Its definitely thinner than the blade which would seem to make it useless??

Thanks.

Mike W.

Reply to
Mike W.

I've been watching Nahmie, David M, and a few others for years... but have only recently been trying it myself.

Thanks for the good words.

Mike W.

Reply to
Mike W.

Thats about where I took it. I heard 'kickback this' and 'safety that' all the time so I was pretty careful. It only took that one bit of laziness to show me why its preached so often. I have a basement shop which is a little chilly so I had a t-shirt and a sweatshirt on which certainly helped. I remember the instant I heard the launch, it took a split second to recognize the impact and pain, and before I could get my hands and eyes to the 'crater' I wondered if I had been impaled. Luckily all I got was a welt that after about an hour actually let some blood come to the surface, but I know I got off easy. LESSON LEARNED.

Can't help you with the cats... my Rottie might be able to, though. :-) Naaaa... he's a wuss.

Thanks, Mike W.

Reply to
Mike W.

Thanks for the kind words. I hope some of this, though humored a bit, does help everyone at least a tad. I get so much from the experience and lessons posted in this newsgroup that I feel obliged to offer everything I learn... no matter how stupid I was to learn it. :-)

Mike W.

Reply to
Mike W.

"Mike W." wrote

I remember my high school shop teacher telling us to stand in a position that if you fell, you would not fall on the sawblade. We would have to demonstrate this. We would fall onto a padded table saw to show that we did not have any hands, etc, where they should not be.

I continue to follow that advice. What I added this little safety ritual was making sure I DON'T stand where any potential kickback may occur.

Reply to
Lee Michaels

Well, that is a good point...Although, when a measuring tool gets THAT worn, I tend to give it a good burial. But then, I rarely manage to keep a tape measure long enough to get it worn to that point. I am fairly sure that there must be about 20 of them hiding in nooks and crannies of my workshop (which gets back to the comments elsewhere on cluttered shops), so I am doing the best I can to keep Stanley, et al, in business by buying new tapes. Regards Dave Mundt

Reply to
Dave Mundt

- before even dry fitting, check that all the parts that are suppose to have square ends actually have square ends

- check that all parts that are supposed to be the same length are in fact the same length.

- mark the parts so you know which face is "up" and which edge is the "front"

- if there are multiples use the triangle marking method to identify which ones on top, which one is in the middle and which one goes on the bottom.

- when ever possible, make all measurements off on end and one reference edge.

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE!!!!

- ALWAYS CUT ON THE WASTE SIDE!

- put a slight chamfer on the edges of parts that are going into dadoes (except on the last 1/8" up front where it'll show. couple of passes with 120 grit will do. avoids splitting and crunching on snug fits

- if you want to avoid splintering on the good face of ply, set the blade 1/16th or so above the table and feed the sheet, good face down, from the back of the saw to score it. Then raise the blade and feed in the normal direction to finish the cut.

- make a bunch of 6 x6 mdf corner blocks with 2 holes for clamps. makes holding things square while putting things together during glue up a lot easier

- affer glue up but before glue dries check for square and adjust clamps accordingly then check again.

- keep glue off your hands because it'll leap off later onto the middle of the birdseye panel you just put in between the rails and the stiles.

- waxilit where you don't want glue then wipe it off with alcohol before finishing saves a lot of glue scraping and that little patch you didn't see 'til the finish went on and salmon colored spots start appearing

- MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- CUT ON THE WASTE SIDE

- did I mention MARK THE WASTE SIDE? What about CUT ON THE WASTE SIDE!

(and those are just my major F**K UPS.)

charlie b

Reply to
charlie b

Wow. Thanks for the great info, Charlie. Is this waxilit available in stores or only online?

I haven't even been able to find paste wax other than the Minwax 'Finishing Paste Wax' and I'm not sure thats the right stuff for coating parts for friction, protection, etc.

Thanks. Mike W.

Reply to
Mike W.

Wow. Thanks for the great info, Charlie. Is this waxilit available in stores or only online?

I haven't even been able to find paste wax other than the Minwax 'Finishing Paste Wax' and I'm not sure thats the right stuff for coating parts for friction, protection, etc.

Thanks. Mike W.

Reply to
Mike W.

"Mike W." wrote in news:oEAYd.15036$4k2.11804 @fe2.columbus.rr.com:

I DAGS'ed and found (eventually) Robin Lee to the rescue!

Reply to
Han

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