Despite the "rub on, wipe almost dry" repeated application of my
favorite: Homer Formby's modified tung oil," there were times when
I'd get some rough areas. Usually it was grain that had kicked up
or dust that settled into a particular area where I might not have
wiped it down as well as I could.
In either case, I preferred to first flatten the area with 1000
grit wet/dry paper and water, using a wood block backing for
rigidity. The stuff cuts a finish fast, so it takes a light hand.
However, the resulting dull area can be recoated with the Homer
Formby's to get a bit more gloss, then the entire piece rubbed out
with the 0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax.
The steel wool conforms to the finish's topography and doesn't
flatten it out as easily or as well as the light sanding. OTOH,
the conforming nature of the steel wool lends itself to a more
uniform overall finish after things are flattened some, since
it'll reach down into the lower areas where the sanding block only
hits the high points.
Live a good and honorable life.
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