Finishing Question...

[jbry3]

Does that really work, Dan? I "installed" just exactly what you described in my little shop-under-the-stairs 6 months ago (which probably is not a 'real' 6-months since I only play at woodworking from time to time) in hopes that it might have done some good. But I still collect dust on all surfaces. The fan blows into the large rest-of-the-basement so there's no real "exhaust" worthy of the name. I was just this week feeling guilty for wasting electrons when I read your post. I have to admit, though, that I haven't done a quantitative before/after study.

John

[David Nebenzahl]

On 4/6/2010 6:20 AM dadiOH spake thus:

i disagree. It's *very* durable; that's why it's used. More resistant to UV, too. Yes, it's softer, but that's a good thing, too; less likely to crack from temperature changes (think elastomeric paints).

[salty]

Spar varnish is soft, and especially useful for spars, which flex. If you have items that will not be flexing, then there are better and more durable choices, even on a boat. You should especially avoid using it anywhere that abrasion might be a problem. You don't want people walking on it.

There is nothing about spar varnish that makes it inherently more UV resistant, unless it has more or better UV resistance added to it. Read the label to determine if it has any UV additives at all. There is nothing in particular about spar varnish itself that makes it more UV resistant.

[dadiOH]

I disagree with your disagreement :)

*ANY* good marine varnish is durable. And any can have UV inhibitors. The reason for spar varnish being soft *is* to make it more flexible because it is meant to be used on spars - only lubbers paint wood spars - and spars bend. That's not to say it can't be used elsewhere if one is willing to sacrifice abrasion resistance for flexibility.

I speak from 20 years experience owning a 42' ketch with main and mizzen masts, main and mizzen booms, gaff and yard together with trunk cabin, dog house, hand rails, skylight, hatch trim, cockpit and transom finished bright; spar varnish on the spars, regular elsewhere. This was in the tropics, nothing ever cracked from temperature changes (max range maybe 50 degrees).

[rich]

Hmmmmmmm... I'll try a thinned coat and see what happens. Maybe then the 0000 steel wool and paste wax as a final coat. Apply the wax with the steel wool.

I think after that, the trim will go back on the boat. It's good enough to impress my relatives and kids right now.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. As always, lots of good ideas here!

[Lew Hodgett]

.

-------------------------------------- Steel wool on a boat?

Ye Gads.

Lew

[Larry Jaques]

On Tue, 6 Apr 2010 17:13:48 -0700, the infamous "Lew Hodgett" scrawled the following:

[Rich, your new name is "Rusty". Do you understand why? ;) ]

-- In order that people may be happy in their work, these three things are needed: They must be fit for it. They must not do too much of it. And they must have a sense of success in it. -- John Ruskin, Pre-Raphaelitism, 1850

[J. Clarke]

Bronze wool laddie. Or one of the synthetic abrasive pads. Not steel.

[DanG]

John, I have 2 made up. I position them close to the area where I'm sanding or spraying. The filters get dirty - I blow them out with compressor and use again. There is a noticeable reduction of the dust layer on flat surfaces.

Dust collectors and air cleaners are certainly better, but space and dollars . . . . .

[Kevin]

I will let you in on the secret. It's impossible to apply a varnish/poly with a brush and not end up with bubbles. It just amuses the Cabal to tell stories about different brushes, speed of moving the brush, angle of the brush etc to everyone that asks about this.

Many men gave their lives to obtain this information, pass it on to someone who needs it.

-Kevin