Learning as I go along and heed advice from many fine crafters in here,
I arise upon a very minor issue. I made a few projects using my black
walnut and used tung oil as a finish/stain. I know many people have used
tung oil and nothing more. After a few days of application, the wood
still feels a bit oily to the touch. Is this common and will it dry
completely or should I put another finish such as Shellac, Lacquer,
Poly, etc. to coat over it?
Tung takes a long time to dry. I hope you wiped off the excess. It will
No you can't topcoat it with Shellac, or Lacquer, until it is dry.
An oil based poly I am not sure about. I don't use Tung any longer, and
never liked Poly except in some extreme circumstances.
Which tung oil product in particular did you use? If it was one of the
pure oils w/o any driers, it may take a couple of weeks minimum if you
didn't thin it.
Rub it out with just a little on a rag to keep it where it will move,
not stick and keep rubbing down frequently will help some.
But, w/o the driers it's a _slow_ process; humidity will only prolong
(altho it doesn't really "dry" in the sense of evaporation, it form
polymer cross-links and cures.
It will eventually dry assuming you wiped off all you could when you applied
it. If you didn't it will still dry but will be gummy.
How many coats have you applied? Tung oil makes a decent finish but it
requires multiple coats, multiple being 4 minimum (IMO) and as many as you
care to apply to get the look you want.
"THEY" say you need to sand between coats and that it is dry enough to
recoat when sanding produces a powder. I don't sand between coats unless
there is an obvious spot that needs it, I wait two days before another coat.
"THEY" say to thin the first coat 1:1 oil:thinner but additional coats
should be full strength. I thin 1:3, sometimes 1:4 for all coats; hell you
want to wipe off as much as possible,why use full strength?
Interesting - I use linseed oil a lot more than Tung oil
(I think I've only ever once used Tung oil), and I've never
heard either of those two directives.
Needless to say, I don't sand and I don't thin. With linseed
oil, at least, most of it soaks into the wood, so there's not
that much to wipe off.
(I have heard it suggested that for open pore woods, oil and
sanding to fill the grain is a viable technique).
The writeup for using Epifanes spar varnish, intended for boat decks
and spars, is useful. This varnish contains Tung oil, and a few other
such things, in naptha (not water).
The intent is to fill the pores fairly deeply, ending up with smooth
glossy surface with optical and physical depth. The dilute mix soaks
in more deeply than full strength can.
On Friday, July 8, 2016 at 3:29:06 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Wow... I had no idea!
You know, one day I might just get those from you and put something togethe
r. There always seems to be a need. I am working now to get a contract to
oversee (schedule and consult) on a large remodel. I don't have the time
to do it personally as I am covered with all the hail damage work I can do
But it is a nice job, and the painting contractors the client interviewed a
re frankly, lost on refinishing. They know nothing about "industrial grade
" enamels, little about prep, and their product knowledge is limited only t
o their favorite supplier, which is most cases is Sherwin Williams because
they have a free Keurig machine in every store.
The cabinet refinish (there are three wall to wall units that total about 4
0'X9, a bathroom vanity, and lot of kitchen cabs that are in the mix. The
total overhaul on the cabinets finished the way they should be with new har
dware installed will probably be about $20 - 25 thousand. They are all sol
id white oak (oak ply carcass/shelves)from about 25 or more years ago, so i
n my opinion worth saving. Due to the layout of the rooms, if new cabinets
were to be made and installed, they would go back almost exactly the way t
hey are now, just with lesser quality material and a three month wait time
on the cabs themselves. They they would need to be installed and finished
as well. Savings by refinishing is enormous, and the painter will be able
to put a handful of cash in his pocket if he does it right.
Sadly, they hardly know where to start. I am negotiating with the client n
ow to see if he wants me to write the specs and materials just for the refi
I am surrounded by latex slingers. Anything these guys know about oils, lo
ng oils, enamels, deglossers, etc., is all folklore. What a shame. About
ten years ago, Sherwin Williams gave FREE classes on how to use their produ
cts, and fed you a hot dog at lunch, and an additional 10% off any industri
al grade product you bought (in addition to your normal discount)for the ne
xt 30 days.
They canceled <all> the classes because not enough people attended. Not ju
st here, but wherever SW sells their products and has an industrial divisio
The thing that keeps me from putting my thoughts all in one basket is that
while probably ten people on this earth would read it, at that rate it woul
d be easier for them just to call me!
Although, one day you should show me those posts. I have kept exactly none
Robert, As an old marketing research guy, I have an idea that I have
actually seen done many years ago. If in fact, there is an "industrial"
category, division, etc., there would be a great interest in getting word of
that out. If you were to write something up in a digital format, think
Kindle, you could put something together fairly quickly. It does not have
to be a big book. In fact it could be deliberately small to "introduce the
concept" The concept being there are other finishes in the world besides
cheap latex. You could even have a humorous title about that, (Anything but
It could even start a movement! Anything but Latex!
It then would become universally available, for a very reasonable price. If
more info was required to cover any particular topic, then another volume
could be made. Just sneak it out there, get a few good reviews and let the
finish/paint company find out from the market. They will go to bat for you
to promote the product. Even buy large quantities from you to sell/promote
that industrial line.
I worked many years ago with a software coding guy who wrote a book that few
people on the planet understood. He never sold a copy. He just sent it out
everywhere to the heads of the coding departments of many companies. They
took a look at it and decided that he knew what he was talking about. And
they paid $2,000 a head to send their coders to his seminars. It was
referred to as Expertise Marketing. You could even conduct a few seminars
yourself. Maybe even do some things for the finish companies themselves.
Real expertise, delivered in a folksy way is strong marketing. It would
probable pay well too. (Although it probably could not compete with hail
Think outside of the box Robert. You have the expertise. It is just a
matter of figuring out how to capitalize on it.
My two cents, Lee
On 7/11/2016 4:06 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I've found myself talking clients out of new cabinets for that very reason.
Also, when I redid our lake house kitchen in AR, I decided to repair,
rather than replace. No matter how much I tried I could not get anymore
mileage with regard to usable space, and look and feel remained the same.
Seems we've really lost an entire generation of experienced based wisdom
in SW stores in this neck of the woods. To the point I find myself going
Have to wait in line way too long just talk to some numbnut millennial,
with no experience and with whom it is a tossup if they can even spell
paint. AAMOF, the new "manager" of one of the SW stores, in a trendy
location, is a young female, without a clue, but who fits right in with
the local soccer moms looking for fashion advice in color choices.
Thank you gents.
I used 100% pure which I bought from Amazon.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
I had a feeling about the humidity as it sat in for a few days and I did
wipe the excess. I brought it into the house and I'll let it dry out
See below - quoted from the " Tech " link on this web page :
Pure or Polymerized
Unless you are finishing a food-contact item like a salad bowl or
spoon, your choice should be polymerized tung. Not only does it dry
much faster, but you can use it to create finishes that range from
nearly matte to high luster.
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