I've a bigger cast iron gluepot simmering nicely in the electrolytic
de-ruster. When it's ready, I'd going to black wax the outside, and
bitumen the "bain marie" surfaces.
But how to finish the inner pot surface, where the glue goes ? I'd
like something that's rustproof and non-reactive, and certainly won't
react with the glue. I don't use hide glue often enough that I can
merely leave yesterday's glue in it ready for the next day.
Any suggestions ?
On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 14:48:29 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
I'm inclining towards nickel plate. I've been looking for an excuse to
buy the chemistry for doing electroless nickel anyway ($75).
I'm doing some acid copper plating at the moment (on leather !) Having
nickel handy would also allow me to interleave the plating materials,
which gives a stiffer and more robust plating on non-conductors. I
might try copper plating on the iron too, but that's tricky with an
acid plating bath and I can't really work with cyanide baths.
On Fri, 6 Aug 2004 16:51:14 -0400, "Mark Hopkins"
Friend of mine's retired walking boots. She wants to turn them into a
Total failure so far - it depends on getting a conductive layer onto
the leather before plating, usually involving some sort of graphite
coating. Our various recipes haven't worked very well yet, and we're
still waiting for some commercial Aquadag to show up.
OTOH, I have managed to copper plate titanium (which is difficult),
and to electroless copper plate steel (which is also difficult,
Best part is that _all_ of the materials came from just one place, the
over-the-counter farm vet chemist. Few kg of copper sulphate (for
athlete's hoof in sheep or something), conc sulphuric acid (drain
cleaner), stockholm tar (sheep polish), calf feeding buckets (stronger
Good lord. This used to be the hot set-up for baby shoes in the '40s, '50s,
'60s. May still be for all I know. You need to find a supplier for one of those
outfits, though I think most of the ads wanted to sell the entire business kit.
"Inanimate objects are classified scientifically into three major categories -
those that don't work, those that break down and those that get lost." Russell
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