Nothing special, just some woodworking content: drawers for a client
needing a few _budget_ file folder and storage drawers in his garage
For those clients on a budget, lately I've been using pre-finished
(clear UV topcoat), 1/2" birch plywood "Drawer Sides" (pre-cut dado for
drawer bottom, and rounded top edge) for a cost effective, reasonably
strong, nice looking, budget drawer box.
Locally, "Drawer Sides" come in 60" lengths and six height sizes: 2 1/2,
3 1/2, 5", 7", 9" 1/2", and 12", and average +/- $1/lf, depending upon
width (a 12"x 5' side being the most expensive at around $12.99/ea)
1/4" x 4 x 8, pre-finished birch plywood for the bottoms runs about
Due to not having to finish, I find them cost effective, being fast and
easy to fabricate with locking rabbet joints, a pinned rabbet joint, or,
for a bit more class, a domino'ed rabbet joint, a la Leon.
More and more folks seem to be budget oriented these days, and these
fill the bill.
Being prefinished is the real time and expense saver. Add $10 ~ $20 per
quart for a decent varnish to that expense and $30 for a sheet of ply.
At $12.99 x 5 you are looking at $65. vs up to $50 for do it ALL your
self. AND I HATE finishing drawers. I'll look into this method when
ever my customer wants a finished drawer.
Now that is the real time saver. I suspect that the prefinished is
better than paint grade, which is what I usually buy, for about $10 less.
Who is that?
Are these pre finish drawer sides top and bottom edges sharp edged or
have they been rounded over?
According to CLP, the material for those six, 12"H x 19"D x 18"W drawers
was $107.87, or +/- $18/drawer.
And that included the 3/4" MDF ($30/sheet) for the drawer fronts,
Best part, when they're glued up, they're done.
Drawer fronts went on after installation, and after client's painter
Last time I built drawers was for my router bit cabinet. I don't build often enough to produce excellent results, consistently. Having this prefab option is good to know.
My latest "drawer" project, last week: Used a salvaged kitchen drawer, added a door to the opening, a shelf inside, to hang on the wall at the farm shop as a first aid kit/box. Kept the pull on it, to carry where needed, if needed.
On Saturday, November 30, 2013 9:19:47 AM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:
To me, this type of build looks great. I >>REALLY<< like the fact that the
surfaces are finished and the drawer is ready to go as soon as the glue dr
ies. I have never had any of the prefinished product come with a bad finis
h. (Poor handling by others doesn't count!)
And what a time saver... no getting out the spray rig or even foam pads, n
ot three coat process, no nibs, no flaws, no contaminated surfaces, no sand
ing, no rounding over of the top sides, and no voids in the plywood.
As always, we seem to suck hind teat here. We can readily get 3 1/2", 5" a
nd 9". As of early this year, the other sizes were catch as catch can or s
pecial order. The 1/4" drawer bottom is about $34 here, finished one side.
Karl - is the drawer side stock you are buying dadoed top and bottom? The
ONLY thing I don't like about the stock they sell here is most of it has th
e dado cut into both interior edges (same side) to accommodate any trimming
for width you might do. So they look OK of you rip that extra dado off, b
ut to me they don't look so good when you have an open groove on the top ed
ge of the drawer box.
As part of an overall fixit list for one of my clients, they had several dr
awers that were feeling their age in the house. They had nicely built cabi
nets, and though a bit dated, not too bad. A couple of estimates for new c
abs plus countertops revealed to the client that their existing cabs were m
uch nicer than they thought. So you know the drill; new slides, refinished
or touched up facings, and new hardware. Nothing special. The are still
But I tried something I did years ago on a super rush project where I had t
o build six drawer boxes to replace the existing POSes the guy had on a des
k in his machine shop. 20 minute epoxy! It is really inexpensive at one o
f our local craft chains, so easy to experiment with. I opened up the drawe
rs at the joints, squeezed some epoxy in the open joints, then tapped them
back together and pinned them. It worked great! By the time I got to the
last drawer the first one had cured enough to reinstall. And since I didn'
t break the drawers down completely, I didn't need to square them up or eve
n clamp. One brad at the top of the joint, one at the bottom. Finished in
Previously I had used epoxy on wood repairs off and on, but never this much
. Worked great!
Just random thought there...
On 11/30/2013 3:16 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Nope just on the bottom. The top edge has a finished roundover for those
off-the-shelf widths mentioned. I have cut down some of this stock for
custom height drawers, and then roundover the cut edge after assembly,
and spray that edge with rattlecan Deft.
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