About 15 years ago I built a small center to set my 35" Tube type TV on, and
it weighed at least 200#'s.
The cabinet is about 35" tall, 35" wide, and 24" deep. Below the TV is a
grilled area to house the "Center Channel Speaker", below that is an area
that houses an amplifier/tuner, carousel CD/DVD player, DVD burner, and
HDDVR. Half of those components set on an adjustable shelf and hide behind
smoked glass doors. Below the components is a full width and full depth
drawer with full extension slides to house CD's and DVD's.
The center channel speaker grill frame helps to support the weight on the
front side of the top that the TV sets/sat on, a 40" LCD TV lives there now.
The top is "2" pieces of 3/4" thick Oak plywood and is banded with 1.5" x
3/4" solid Oak. I strongly suggest that you use a thicker material and at
least 1.5" thick for the top. After about 2 years I stopped being
concerned if the cabinet would hold the TV with out collapsing.
I can post on a.b.p.w or e-mail pictures of the cabinet if you need some
ideas or would like to see what mine looks like.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
To the question of shelf attachment.
1. Put cleats under the shelf. Glued and screwed to the ply from
inside. Be careful to only get 3/8" penetration from screw.
2. If There is actually a frame under or edging the shelf, you could
screw through that instead of adding a cleat. 4 screws with glue at
each side sould hold it. If you can get some more throough the back or
a small return on the front, that would help.
3. The 1/2" ply is strong enough to carry the load in direct vertical,
just be sure the geometry of the until does not allow for the side to
bow in our out or for the whole unit to rack.
4. Alternative is to use some sort of shelf system, metal strips with
clips. Honestly a few hundred statis pounds is pretty easily supported
by typical shelf system.
5. Alternative is to build little columns inside the side. You could
use a 1x2 at each corner inside standing on end and that would be
fine. Stack them between shelfs if you have multiples.
On Jun 4, 9:01 pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
That just doesn't seem like it's enough to be effective. I guess the
screws are there until the glue dries, though. I'm used to relying on
screws for their mechanical strength and not really trusting glue.
There's a frame, that's why I'm sure the shelves would be strong enough.
That's the reason I had a feeling the 1/2" ply wasn't going to be strong
enough! I knew it would work for the load, but wasn't quite sure it'd
Except for covering the miter detail, that's not a bad idea. With some
screws and NO glue, the 1x2s on end could be used as a way to adjust the
shelf height. (Gravity would pull down on them, so the screws are only
there for alignment.)
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
Yeah I guess glue and 3/8" penetration of screws into ply and some
glue seems a little weak but I think the engineering math would OK it
for 200#. But I might worry about my TV also.
I'm not sure what the front edge detail is on the ply sides. If there
is no face frame I just that makes it difficult to hide any structure.
Another, maybe less visible method if there is any way to hid the
front edge is to use another ply of ply instead of 1x columns, just
have another section of 1/2 ply that stops at the bottom of the
shelves. You only have 1/2" of bearing but if it has no way to get
out, then that is safe. It's really the same as using 1" ply with
On Jun 5, 10:40 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
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