Got a router? Got a 3/8 cutter with a 1/4 shank? Extend the bit so it cuts
the underside of the hole about 1/2 the thickness of the wood. Use the
shank of the bit to run around the top edge of the hole. You have now
enlarged the diameter of the bottom half of the hole by 1/8. Turn the door
over, set the bit so it cuts what wasn't cut before. Repeat until the
enlarged part of the hole is the correct diameter then switch to a 1/4 bit
and trim the rest of the hole flush with the enlarged part.
Takes more time to tell than do, makes a nice vertical hole.
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1) Cut a hole the old size (1-3/4") and glue the cutout in the hole.
2) Take a square scrap of wood. Draw a 1-3/4" circle with a compass. Make a
pilot hole at the center. Line up the circle with the old door hole. Clamp
the scrap in place. Drill the new hole using the scrap as your guide.
I've also used this method with success. Make a little jig from scrap
ply with a stop for correct backset, bore hole in it, and clamp to
door. If you're like me, layout a horizontal center on door edge and
jig so you can align both sides of the door accurately. AND remember,
most lock sets allow some margin of error.
You're lucky if you won't have to fool with filling the old lock
mortise in. I spent 3 hrs last weekend retrofitting a Schlage unit to
a mortised skeleton key setup. It was funny... Prepping the stock,
fitting, and gluing up the mortise was easy, but matching the small
unfinished areas of a 100 year old oak door took the majority of my
I found the article, just a snippet, really - "The Family Handyman" October
2004. pp 19. It syas to use two hole saws, the pilot saw the same diameter
os the existing hole and the larger hole saw (the correct size) - install
both. Go slowly until the pilot saw aligns the larger.
Looks soooo easy,
| > [snip]
| > I found the article, just a snippet, really - "The Family Handyman"
| > October
| > 2004. pp 19. It syas to use two hole saws, the pilot saw the same
| > diameter
| > os the existing hole and the larger hole saw (the correct size) - install
| > both. Go slowly until the pilot saw aligns the larger.
| > Looks soooo easy,
| > Josie
| That would work with the el-cheapo stack holesaw sets, but ain't gonna make
| it with my Lennox set.
The Starrett Oops arbor will fit your Lennox saws (as well as Milwaukee and
Blu-Mol). It seems very handy in concept, though I admit that I have not
opened it since I bought it...
Really makes you want to slap the bejeezus out of whomever designed lock
packaging containing the words "Easy Installation!" :-) Nothing in home
repair is as quick as we wish it would be.
| OK, wizards - here's a situation I can't find a good solution to. I have a
| Yale deadbolt in my back door, and want to replace with a KwikSet. The
| backset (from edge of door to center of hole) is correct for Kwikset, but
| the hole's size is too small. It's about 1-3/4", and the Kwikset requires
| 2-1/8". I've got the right size hole saw, but without solid wood for the
| guide bit, I can't see a way for the saw to work correctly. Using a saber
| saw is a possibility, I guess, but I wonder if there's something more
| elegant, as opposed to turning this into a cob job.
| Anyone got a cool trick?
Starrett has a special "Oops" arbor (seriously, that's the name) that lets
you use one hole saw as a pilot for a bigger hole saw. It has a 1/4" shank
and threads for both saw sizes. I think you might be better off just clamping
a piece of wood over the hole as others have suggested, though. When my
locksmith did this he used his normal lock jig. Versions of that are available
at home stores.
Once again, the solution to this was illustrated in the latest edition of
"The Family Handyman".
Mount two hole saws on the same arbor. Slide the larger one on first so it
will be closer to the drill chuck, then slide the 1 3/4" saw on. Tighten
both, insert the smaller one in the existing hole, using it as a pilot.
Kwikset makes a drill jig for just this. I bought one about 15 years ago for
my locksmith biz. And have made a pile of money with it. Call a local
locksmith and pay him a lot of money.
Plan B is to take two pieces of thin plywood, and a couple C-clamps. Clamp
plywood on both sides of the door. Use a carpenters square to mark where
the hole oughta be, and drill with a hole saw. I personally can't encourage
you to do this, cause it would deprive a brother locksmith of a house call.
I've had the same problem replacing Dexter Locks with Baldwins. Our local
Ace Hardware Store has a kit that they rent out. It contains a large metal
jig that clamps to the door and a 2 1/8 inch forsner bit. Easy, fool proof
and fast. Takes about 4 minutes. They rent it out for about $20 for a
couple of hours and require a $200 deposit to make sure you use it and bring
If the new hole is concentric with the old hole, any of the suggestions
given will work.
If they are not concentric, fill the old hole with catalyzed body
filler, I've done a single pour, but two if you want to sand less.
Use your 2 1/8" holesaw to drill a hole through a short piece of a 2X6
or similar, then clamp that on the door so the drilled hole lines up
with where you need the new hole in the door. The (dare I say it)
predrilled 2 1/8" hole will act as a guide for the holesaw.
My hole saw setup lets a person attach two hole saws to one mandrel. In
effect there's one hole saw inside a bigger one. Could you do something like
that ~ put a hole saw for the existing sized hole inside the bigger one you
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