Maybe I'm missing something here but why the insistence on using a
Forstner bit on a through hole? Why not just use an auger bit (manual
or powered) for the entire length of the hole? Maybe clamp a piece of
scrap on the other side to minimize blowout or BugBear's
To make things easier, a bit gauge or piece of tape wrapped around the
auger bit can be used so you know when to stop boring.
Insistence? I'm open to all kinds of suggestions. I just happened to have
Forstner bit and was familiar with its high quality cuts using a drill
press. Auger bit was suggested several times and its a good idea. I
happened to find a 3/4" brad drill bit and decided to use that.
I didn't mean it particularly to you Bob. I was just wondering why
most of the follow-ups provided ways to bore a deeper hole with a
Forstner rather than suggesting that you can accomplish the task with
a plain ole' auger bit (or brad point bit as you describe below).
Since many of the posters are more experienced wooddorkers than
myself, I thought that I might have not understood the problem
correctly, hence the preface clause in my question above.
I think that should work fine. Good luck and please let us know how
the bench turns out.
Thanks, Mike. One of the things I have learned in my short experience as a
woodworker is that there are usually at least two good ways to accomplish a
goal and perhaps one of those can be done without buying another tool.
Unfortunately, getting by without buying something rarely happens.
Regarding "at least two good ways to accomplish a goal": Just to
throw another monkey wrench into the works, you can always opt for
rectangular bench dogs where making the dog holes is simply a matter
of routering (or dadoing) some slots into one of the boards before
gluing up the top. I chose that route for my bench but I don't think
there's any huge advantage to either approach over the other.
There's always advantages and disadvantages to different types. A round
bench dog will turn in it's slot to flatly face whatever is pressed against
it. Square ones can't do that and maybe slightly more likely to leave an
impression on the wood butted up against it. I'm sure there's some
advantages to square dogs over round ones, but can't think of any right this
I sort of compromised on my dogs.. some are just 3/4 dowels with
expanded tops, some are 2x1" stock with 3/4 turned bases and I have 2
of those HF iron clamping pegs... all part of my "try everything and
learn" system.. *g*
I can see the "point" of the forstner...
I used a 3/4 spade bit, but if the top layer of my bench was hardboard
instead of particle board I would of (after reading this thread) done
the holes about 1/2 deep with the forstner and finished them with the
more for appearance, I think... forstner holes look so pretty..
what, if any, is the difference between a ships auger and any other
kind of auger? I found pictures of ship auger bits on EBay, the spiral
part (flute?) looks thicker along the bits cutting axis than some
others I've seen, is that the only difference? How about the tool that
drives it, the shank looks hexagonal. Will it fit in a brace and bit?
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