That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.
...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done in seconds. ;0)
Yeah. I bought a Rotozip a couple of years ago and after having to clean the dust from an entire room (instead of directly under the cut) after making a few cuts in drywall, I put it back on the shelf.
Thanks for reminding me, I need to sell that POS.
djb
That was actually the other item I brought to the register with me--but I decided not to get it! When I described what I wanted to do, at first he suggested a hacksaw blade, and then he mentioned the rotary tool.
Bill
That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
It all kind of boils down to "right tool for the right job". A dremel isn't going to rip an 8' piece of plywood but OTOH your circular saw isn't going to shape an intricate piece of maple inlay for that mahogany table you just made.
Ed
When equipped with the trammel jig they do work nice for cutting round holes for recessed light fixtures.
I find a knife is more satisfactory. YMMV.
I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after awhile...
cg
It's only a value if you need it. But HFT does not sell the 1/8" router type bits, that I was ever able to find. I had to order some from Ebay. Else the cost was ridicules to get bits from Sears, HD, Anderson's or Lowe's.
However, the cordless dremelesque rotary tool I bought at HFT and the Shopsmith I bought at Anderson's (regional place?) both fit on the Dremel attachments.
Mike > HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper and it works fine for me.
...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come anywhere close to the wires?
...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the outside of the box, and run the thing around. This is a close to perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...it can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...
cg
Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.
Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better Buggylugging any sheet goods.
I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.
...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra, usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...
...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get the less stuff I seem to need!
cg
The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but goes through the stuff like butter.
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke" scrawled the following:
As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
-- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.
The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall. Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges, either.
Yes, I'd think that would be the perfect tool for "old work". Hanging drywall is where the RotoZip is supposed to shine. The idea is that the bit follows the *outside* of the box. It takes some practice but not hard.
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