If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past that if the white panel scratches it might look worse after a few years.
Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice with an enamel paint.
The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
Ok, gotcha. Still seems like more work. It's pretty easy to apply a finish to 1/4 plywood or better yet, use the pre-finished stuff. The finish they apply in the factory is very durable.
Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most normally sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going to store wrenches on them :).
Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8 or 1/8 + a RCH.
Food for thought here, these will be kitchen drawers, kitchen utensils tend to be much like wrenches. ;~) I live in a relatively new neighborhood, newest homes are 3 years old. One of the builders used
1/8" thick drawer bottoms and I have rebuild several of those drawers, for neighbors, not mine, already. By comparison our builder used 1/4" bottoms and we have had no issues yet. 1/4" plywood is much less expensive than the time to rebuild a kitchen drawer bottom that may fail.
I'll be making 5 kitchen drawers. At this time, some could probably get by with 1/8" (plastic wrap/bags in one, a knife holder tray in another, etc.) However, at least one needs 1/4". Picture 2 trays full of utensils, one on top of the other (don't ask!).
Who knows...they are kitchen drawers today, maybe they'll be workshop drawers (read: wrenches) in the future. For consistency and longevity, I'll be using 1/4" bottoms.
My dado blade will get lonely.
A term I haven't heard since my Coast Guard days! Picture it said with a heavy German accent by a German national EE. Very funny, probably had to be there/know him. Sylt, Germany, circa 1974-75.
It should stay lonely if you use ply. I always use a standard 1/8" kerf blade, I use a flat cut blade for flat bottoms but not necessary. Get your bottom material first and make two passes on the TS to perfectly cut/fit your drawer bottom groove to the material you are going to use for the bottoms. If you use a dado it is very likely that it will cut too wide for 1/4" ply.
by with 1/8" (plastic wrap/bags in one, a knife holder tray in another, et c.) However, at least one needs 1/4". Picture 2 trays full of utensils, one on top of the other (don't ask!).
rawers (read: wrenches) in the future. For consistency and longevity, I'll be using 1/4" bottoms.
I'll keep that in mind. Certainly worth some testing. Thanks!
Drawer bottoms (in my silverware drawer, for instance) take a lot of steady load. I've seen a lot of MDF/hardboard/termitebarf movement in moisture/load situations, and would be happier with 3/8" plywood, rabbeted at the edges to fit a 1/4" groove.
For small drawers in dry locations, though, you could do well with melamine-surfaced hardboard (like for shower stalls).
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