I have a bandsaw mill and access to a fair bit of logs (fir, pine, and
cedar). What is the most economical way to make house siding? What
I'm after is the most economical "shape" or profile.
One thing I was thinking of doing was cutting 1X8s (true size) and
then setting up my planar at a slight angle and running the boards
through the planer (with the blades removed or down so they don't
plane) and into the bandsaw mill- basically use the planer as a board
feeder (don't worry, it's a cheap HF model so I won't be overly
abusing a quality piece of equipment).
This will cut each 1X8 in two so that it is wedge shaped with one side
being about ¾" thick and the other ¼" thick (slightly less due to
kerf). Then I can just "shingle" the horizontal lap siding to the
house with rough cut edge out.
Anybody done something similar or see flaws in this? Is it worth the
time? Well actually my wife is a stay at home Mom and can probably do
a lot of this while I'm at my day job so time really isn't a
consideration. She's happy to do it because she's motivated to get
new siding and a more attractive house. :)
Also, I have access to a joiner too so that might be the better way to
go. If so what shape should I use that will be the easiest?
I've made a few thousand feet of lap siding on a Woodmizer. The best way is
to get one of their tilted feeders for the bed. It feeds the board through
at an angle, like you say, but supports it well as it goes under the blade,
to keep the cut straight.
Cut your boards 8X1 1/8 to 8X1 1/4 and you'll get nice heavy siding. Mine
is pine and poplar. Dry it a few months with a cover over the top (I use
roof tin.) after cutting the boards and before splitting. Use soon after
splitting, so it can't bend.
I made a long tank of 2X10s, lined it with flashing metal, and dipped my
boards to get good penetration on both sides. It's a lot of work, but about
50 cents/SF when all is sid and done.
That's paying .20 to saw and another .20 to bevel. I used Behr oil stain.
They say they have a better one now, with silicone.
You'll need 2X trim boards. I used treated 2X4, to be sure they wouldn't
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