Hey all. I took this planer to the shop because it would bog down and
trip the onboard breaker partway through a 4/4 piece of red oak. The
technician looked it over and reported back a few days later that the
brushes and everything else looked fine, but the blades looked like
they were pretty worn down. So I had him put brand new blades on,
paid 80$ and I took it back home to try it out. It seemed to work
fine, but after a couple of passes, lowering it 1/64" each time, it
would start sounding like it was taking A LOT of stock off, as though
I had it set too deep...Then again, it would trip the onboard breaker,
leaving me cussing quietly under my breath. (my young son was watching
I bought this planer from a fella for 75$ a few weeks ago, because he
said it would do the same thing for him. He said it was a factory
reconditioned purchase. (I suppose I should have paid attention to
the little red flag going up in my mind...) I noticed he had a brand
new Rigid planer.
Thanks for your help.
> I took this planer to the shop because it would bog down and
> trip the onboard breaker partway through a 4/4 piece of red oak.
Call DeWalt tech service, and have the serial number handy, they are
pretty good with this machine.
At least they were with me.
BTW, doesn't cost $80 to get a set of blades ground, not even here in
Strictly from memory is was less than $15 for a set of 13" blades.
Sounds like the post clamps might not be doing their job.
I have hundreds of board feet through a 733, using it enough to keep
three sets of knives in sharpening rotation.
I agree with Lew, it sounds like the locking and height adjustment
mechanism isn't working right, and the blades are pulling the
cutterhead down into the stock. I often run mine without the head
locked when I'm starting off with rough lumber, and it still doesn't
Is the height adjustment handle moving? Is the threaded height
adjuster post or the nut that follows the post stripped? The
threaded rod makes it very difficult to move the head, so I'd look
closely there for damage.
Something you might try, after you lower the cutter head, turn the adjusting
handle back in the opposite direction just till you feel a little
In machinist terms, this is called taking out the lack-lash in the lead
screw. Unless the main adjusting screw is a Ball Screw, all threads have a
certain amount of lack-lash in them. When you adjust the cutter head down,
you are registering off the bottom side of the thread, and when your work
piece starts through the cutters, the vibration allows what slack that is in
the screw to be to be taken up, allowing the cutters to come down in the
I have a 1" travel dial indicator on a magnetic base mounted in my Delta
plainer, and can see if the cutter head is staying where I put it. I always
dial down past the depth I want to cut, and then crank back up to it. This
takes out any slack that might be in the adjusting screw.
If the guy that you bought the unit from indicated the same problem I
suspect that there is a problem with the planer. Maybe not your set up.
That said, be sure to use an adequate extension cord. Shorter and heavier
gauge is desirable. Sometimes 1/64 is still too much on these bench top
models especially on wider hard wood boards.
I was applying some wax to the bed, pondering. I got to noticing the
extension beds. They were flush in height to the bed under the
planer, and there is a bit of an incline as you get further from the
planer. So perhaps the stock was riding up the bed and exerting more
pressure against the rollers and knives thereby causing it to stall
out? I consulted the manual I got off the net and dropped the beds so
that the ends of the beds were level with the bed under the
planer...Unfortunately I was running late for work this afternoon, so
I had to put it aside. Does this sound plausible?
Keeping the base slick will certainly help and if the infeed and out feed
provide enough resistance the going could be tough but most often the motor
heats up or stalls because of the strain from the cutter. The infeed and
out feed rollers have a tremendous amount of low gear pull so I doubt that
would be the problem unless there is enough drag to stall the rollers.
I don't know that this is the problem, but it sure could be. If the
outfeed table is higher at its end it will push the wood up causing a
bigger bite from the blades, but a lot more upward pressure on the
I would have never thought of that. I have set up 2 or three of this
style of planer, including my own 733, certainly the infeed/outfeed is
the first thing I do. I would think at some point the repair shop
would have at least checked that out.
Hope you found the problem. Like Leon said, make sure you have enough
juice to the machine, too.
Bugger. I tried taking 1/32" off of a 4' pine 2x4 through it today
and partway through it crapped out again. The breaker on the motor
tripped, it sounded like the blades were still rotating as it came to
a stop...There was a little bit of bow in the 2x4, but nothing
I have 200A service panel in the garage, the breaker for the garage is
20A, juice runs through 12ga wiring, and nothing else is plugged in.
Periodically when I switch it on, it'll pop the breaker. I wouldn't
think it would pull that much of a load to trip the panel breaker.
Flip the switch again and it'll run fine. So I plug in the 5hp rigid
shopvac and hook it up to the dust chute, notice a little drop in the
sound of the planer motor, but it still runs...I can feed a board
through it, if I take barely more than a whisper off the board, it'll
run it through, but when I take any more than 1/64" off pine or oak,
it'll stop. And it'll do the same if I have the shopvac not
I've read some of your posts saying the cutter head may be getting
pulled into the stock and overheating the engine. Care to elaborate a
bit more on that? How does a fella adjust that?
> I have 200A service panel in the garage, the breaker for the garage is
> 20A, juice runs through 12ga wiring, and nothing else is plugged in.
> Periodically when I switch it on, it'll pop the breaker.
Try a different breaker.
So, with a bit of trepidation, yesterday afternoon, I removed the
guard over the cutterhead and looked at the knives. Yup, they looked
fine. Placed the magnetic knife gauges on and noticed there was a bit
of space between the knife edge and the gauge. I thought, "surely
when I I took it in to get it looked at and the tech changed the
blades he would have set the knives up correctly..." That's when I
noticed there was some marks on the cutter head body itself, suddenly
it dawned on me that the stock is contacting the head with minimal
blade contact! So I took a deep breath, crossed myself, (put on
gloves) and loosened the 8 bolts, allowed the blades to come out about
1/8" more to kiss the edges of the magnetic knife gauges. Buttoned
things back up and ran the same 2x4 through. It didn't sound like it
was taking much stock off, so I set it 1/16 deeper, saw nice shavings
coming out! Didn't bog down a bit! Ran the 4/4 8" oak plank through
with beautiful shavings shooting out the chute!. Didn't even hiccup!
Thanks for all your ideas.
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