I mentioned in another post on this thread, I've been using the
cardboard cores that flooring and carpeting are rolled around. I get
it from free from a flooring outlet. It is mostly 4", sometimes 5".
I've even made 90 degree bends by making 2-45 degree corners with a
short straight section in between, by cutting the pipe on my miter
saw, and glue together with construction glue. That is probably too
much work, but it does work well enough if you are careful.
Still, I am planning to replace with 6" S&D PVC eventually.
(slaps forehead)...damn, I could've had a V8, er, I mean, that's a good
idea. I had to pick up some carpet tubes for a project at work and it didn't
even dawn on me. Even if for straight runs, which I have several of, it's a
good idea. Thanks
I got some when it was $30. It works just fine, but it has a life of
its own when you play with gates. I had to air out the piece before
bringing it into the shop (strong plasticky smell) since my shop is
keyed to my house HVAC.
Most people assume the fights are going to be the right versus the left,
but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks.
-- Jimmy Wales
I got a short length of this when I bought my Grizzly collector to see
what it was like:
I just purchased another 10 and a 20 foot length after I had a chance
to check out the original purchase. It looks like it is going to be
durable; and the interior surface is smoother than some of the more
BTW -- Bill Pentz is well respected for his research and design of
dust collection systems. He seems to support the use of hard PVC
plumbing components, especially for home shops, if reasonable
grounding and cleanliness measures are taken. Read down into the body
The problem I've had with PVC is the fittings don't work on any pipe I've
found. DC parts are bad enough (I'm told there are only one or two makers and
all their tooling is shot) but the normal PVC conversion parts are really bad.
There is about a 1/4" gap between schedule-20 pipe and common (outside)
I did find one adapter from Rockler that works by fitting inside the pipe, but
it's sorta expensive (for what it is) and I'd rather not restrict the airflow.
How do others fit this stuff together so it works?
On Fri, 31 Dec 2010 00:30:29 -0600, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
If the part is too big to fit the PVC, I cut slits in the end of it
and put a hose clamp around it.
PVC can be made to stretch larger (or even smaller) by heating (say
with a heat gun) it until it gets flexible, but do it in a well
ventilated area because it gives off toxic fumes.
By the way, if you go to a carpet outlet, you may be able to get 8' x
4" cardboard tubes for free.
The only problem with all this is that 4" is really too narrow for
efficient collection of the fine stuff that causes health problems -
like lung damage and cancer. You want to maximize airflow to suck that
up before it floats away from the source.
But most of the ports on the equipment is 4", and 4" is the most
common size used by most people. And since filter bags on dust
collectors tend to let the real fine stuff go right through them, you
really should get a good respirator and use it all the time. Or get a
cyclone with fine filters.
This stuff isn't even close. I was thinking about filling the gap with RTV
but I really didn't want to make permanent connections.
I've found that equipment manufacturers aren't consistent, either. My
Unisaw's dust port is quite a different size than the port on my DeWalt
I hadn't thought of that.
My DC has a 6" port with a 2x4" 'Y'. I could plumb for 6" but that gets
expensive. I'd have to neck down to 4" to the tool anyway.
My DC is supposed to have 1u bags on it. I'm not about to use a respirator
whenever I'm working. I'd rather give up the hobby.
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