Hello everyone,
In my last post I had milled up enough rail and stile stock to make 21 doors,
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don't have any overall great plan on how this kitchen gets built, each step relies on the previous one. All I really started with was the outside dimensions of the spaces the cabinets need to fill.
For making the doors and drawer fronts, I placed painters tape on the boxes and marked out the overlay for doors and drawers,
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hinges are for 3/4" overlay, so that is how far I marked back on all sides, except for a 1/2" overlay where doors meet on a common stile.
Once I had recorded these measurements, I made a cut list from there,
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stiles are the full length. Rails are 4" less on all doors and drawer fronts. Side panels rails are 3-1/4" less to account for the narrow stiles that meet up with the face frames. This is fairly easy math as my rail and stile stock is 2-7/16", 7/16" being the tennon length on the rails. Panels are 1/16" less than the rails and 4-1/16 less than the stiles. The drawer stiles are only 1-7/16", so those panels are only 2-1/16 less than there stiles. It is marginally more complicated than that, but not much.
I cut up two and one half sheets of 1/2" MDF for the 21 panels,
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installed my 15º flat panel raised panel bit in my router table,
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wasn't getting the size of tongue I wanted, so I removed the bearing to allow a greater depth of cut.
When I was running narrow boards, I used a second piece of MDF behind it to be sure everything wound run straight,
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can see here almost all the panels run,
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then primed both sides of the panels with a shellac based primer,
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light sanding removed all the fuzzies from the panel raising. It was much easier to sand the profile before the doors got glued up.
Not the best pic, but you can see the 84 parts cut up on the jointer that are the rails and stiles for the 21 doors,
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is a shot of me setting up for the cope cut on the end of the rails,
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is pretty idiot proof, I align the top cutters lower edge with the lower edge of the cut profile.
Next I make sure the cutters bearing is flush with both fence faces,
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the straight edge is slid back and fourth, the bearing should roll, but the strait edge should not rock between fence faces (all three are in line).
Making a cope cut,
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know when you have the cope bit at the correct height when there is only the smallest wisp of material left on the top and/or bottom of the cope cut (see arrows),
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you are coping the rail ends and have a square back edge, you can use any board to back it up to prevent tearout. When the profile edge is at the back to need to first run your backer board through the cope bit to run a profile on it,
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the profile fits into your backer board and there will be no tear out,
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the fun begins, I can start gluing up doors,
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place a stile in my bench vise and drop both the rails and the panel into it. I pop on the top rail and do a test fit. I remove the rail, add glue, flip and repeat.
Next over to the clamps, align everything with the fine adjustment tool (small brass with wooden face hammer) and tighten the clamps,
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was only able to glue up 11 doors tonight as I ran out of clamps and time,
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hope to get a few hours in the next few days to glue up the other 10 doors...
Thanks for looking,
David.
Every Neighbourhood has one, in Mine I'm Him.