Anyone got a workable idea for cutting small wedges for segmented turned vessels without a table saw? The cuts have to be 'very' accurate, as the pieces get glued together into 'perfect' circles.
Thanks,
Greg G.
A miter saw.
I considered a manual box, but the one I have only cuts set angles, and the thought of cutting 260 little pieces of oak and such with a hand saw didn't appeal to me.
But I guess I didn't ask what was the EASIEST way, now did I. ;-)
CMS isn't really accurate enough, and even with a jig, that spinning
12" blade and a 1" wide piece of stock makes me a little nervous... The tea rout is unacceptable as well - stock blade and I'm not ready to spring on a Forest blade just yet. I just bought the blasted WWII.Greg G.
you can do work of any accuracy with any tool. what do you have, if not a table saw?
the less accurate the tool the more handwork you'll have to do to get your parts good enough. at some point it is more accurate and faster to not use a weak machine- just do it all with hand tools.
Everything but... Jointer, planer, bandsaw, CMS, chisels, hammers, hacksaws, drill press, drum sander, lathe, oscilloscopes, hot air soldering stations... hmm nope nothing suitable...
And for your next question... Don't ask...
Actually, I have been working at a jig for the bandsaw, but preliminary tests don't yield accurate enough results.
As I replied to Nova, the thought of precisely cutting up 260 little bits of oak by hand doesn't _really_ appeal to me...
Actually, I posted this to the wrong group - I'm a moron.
Thanks,
Greg G.
Cut a long triangular blank (like a Toblerone bar) on the table saw, and then take slices off it on the band saw?
** very funny ***
You are either:
a) Joking
b) Didn't see the "without a table saw" part
c) Not familiar with turning segmented vessels.
Pick the appropriate choices... (I'm just yanking your chain, Dave...)
OK - this went to the wrong group, so to make this PERFECTLY CLEAR...
I have 1" x 2-4" x 4' long oak and misc stock. I have to cut grain matching wedges of wood into precise sections, so that when glued back together, they form a precise circle. Many other 'disks' of these things get glued together and flattened. The diameters increase or decrease depending on their location. After the whole mess is glued together, you turn it on a lathe. You get this:
Greg G.
That should have been DIN, not dim. But now that I think about it...
Greg G.
If you truly want accuracy and pristine glue lines - then no saw will give you what you're looking for. One of the best segmented turners in the business, Curt Theobald trues up every piece of wood on his disk sander (after using a miter saw). Not just holding it against the disk by hand, but with a jig that yields repeatable results. Rent or buy his first video, "Introduction to Segmented Turning",
I saw that, but assumed you didn't want to cut with a table saw, not that you didn't *have* a table saw.
My bad.
You can't get there from here.
How many segments make the 360 degree circle?
If perhaps 8, then make 7 pieces one size and use the 8th one to soak up all the tolerance errors.
It's the best you will do.
Lew
Hard to do without a table saw.
Don't _even_ go there...
The din in here interferes with comprehension. You're forgiven... ;-)
Greg G.
You will not be able to make them accurate enough, no matter how good your equipment. I got my incra 5000 to within a few thousanths over
18" and the accumulated error (remember, we're talking 12 segments = 24x magnification of any error) still left a gap.The solution is to come up with a way to build the rings *without* needing that kind of accuracy. For 12 segments, it's usually sufficient to build two halves leaving the ends long, then trim or sand them so that the ends are coplanar (which is easy to do accurately enough) then glue the halves together.
For more segments, trimming quarter rings might be useful. If it were me, I'd tape a printout of the segment wedges to my crosscut sled so that I can line up the segment seams on the printout to keep the segments approximately the same size. For half rings, I use a marking knife to mark the four long ones based on one of the short ones, then clamp it to the crosscut sled so that the marks line up with the edge.
Sure you can. Just not without a table saw and a dick sander.
It depends on the design, and whether or not they have thin strips of veneer between them. I have a computer program and a special tablesaw jig to cut precise angles for these things.
Won't work - they have to be precise so that the layers line up correctly. You DO have to sand 180 segments sometimes to even them up a bit before gluing.
I hope not... ;-)
Greg G.
I built a special table saw jig for cutting them. Works fine. Kind of like a large, accurate Dubby.
That's what I do, sand the 180 degree sections before final gluing. I use a computer program to calculate the cuts.
But how do you cut them wi... Oh, never mind...
Greg G.
I see you own a CMS. I think that's what I'd do. Forrest claims to make a blade that yields a glassy smooth surface with one of those.
I've never gotten a surface good enough for glueing off my bandsaur. Perhaps others have, but not me.
Or, cut them with the bandsaur and clean up with a disk sander.
Possibly cut them to rough size with a bandsaur then put each piece >
Yea, but I just bought the WWII and hate to keep throwing money at blades. Plus, it's a 12 incher, and they run about $150 AIR.
Me either. Looks good, but never _quite_ lines up right.
This is the idea I'm toying with at this moment... Owen Lowe got me thinking about it when he said 'sander'...
Don't think I like the router idea, but the CMS or bandsaw with a jig, and then a flat disk sander would prolly do it.
Thanks,
Greg G.
It sounds painful!
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