I am setting up a wood shop in a basement that is carpeted over a
cement floor. I need to cut the rug away from the shop area, before I
But I don't want the rug to unravel where I cut it. Do you think if I
install 2 face carpet tape all along the area where it is cut that
will hold it together, and/or maybe position the bottom plate of the
partition over the "seam" securing the bottom plate with anchors into
the cement (not through the rug),this would keep the carpet from
Hope this makes sense?
Thanks, Tony D.
Unless you've got some kinda strange carpet you shouldn't worry about it
unraveling. If it's wall to wall carpet, the carpetlayers lay it out on
your driveway and cut it to size, then carry it into the house. It
doesn't come apart when they do that.
"Tony D." wrote:
Not really sure what type of carpet is is, I know it dont look like
the indoor out door type carpet you see on a porch.
it had a somewhat deeper nap that outdoor carpet.
thanks, Tony D.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Sir Edgar) wrote in message
Just use a new blade in your utility knife & have at it, replacing as
needed. DON'T try overlapping the bottom plate onto the carpeting. Just
cut the carpet a bit long, roll back the carpet so that you can build
your partition wall, build it, drywall it, install any base trim and
then have your carpet installer install the new tack strips and
re-stretch the carpet to fit.
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
If you're sitting a wall on top of the cut edge, then life (the lazy way)
is fairly simple. Use "carpet tape" (duct tape is an acceptable, albeit
inferior for _this_ purpose, substitute) and 'tape' the edge. i.e. run the
tape lengthwise down the cut edge, and fold it over the top and under
the bottom of the carpet.
If you have an 'open' edge, where you're just transitioning from carpet
to bare floor -- e.g. in a doorway -- then you want to use one of the
metal edging strips _made_ for that purpose.
Note: to 'do things right', you'll need to investigate _how_ the carpet
is currently put down to the floor. You may be in for some 'rude surprises'.
If it was 'done right', there is 'tack strip' around all the edges, and the
carpet was stretched and hooked to the tacks on that strip. there will likely
be foam padding under the carpet. The "right" way, in this scenario
involves _new_ "tack-strip" installed on the 'carpeted' side of any walls
you put up. You cut the carpet a bit oversize, roll it back, build the
wall, install the tack-strip, *stretch* the carpet into place, and 'trim to
'Cheap' carpet may have been *glued* directly to the concrete. Or, it has
'built in' padding, and that padding is glued to the floor. This makes for
"great fun" (not!!) in getting back to a clean, 'usable' bare floor.
its fairly easy use a dryway knife with fresh blade you may have to
change a blade lay down a strait edge 4 or a 6 foot leval works as
dows any strait 2x4 " cut the carpet where you want peel back
carpet to be removed and any loose padding underneath you may have
to scrap if padding was glued down a square edge shovel works great
for this scap the padding save carpet yo have removed if yuor
gonna have to replace latter on
probley around the edge of the floor you will find tack strip remove
that a wonder bar and a claw hammer work great here wear gloves
because of the spinters and the sharp tacks sticking through the
go to home depot or other carpet section and get some new tack strip
and a metal strip called a tranissition strip to go from a carpeted
floor to bare concret get enough of both to cover yuor new cut
check with the how to books on carpet laying for applying tack strip
and streching the carpet
or you could find a carpet layer guy to do the work for you if your
talking about makeing a striat line and no tricky cuts to work around
thsi sounds like about a one hour job for a carpet pro who has al lthe
thsi might be cheaper in the long run
On 13 Jul 2003 17:26:11 -0700, email@example.com (Tony D.) wrote:
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